HomeClimbingThe Burglar's Dog

The Burglar's Dog: A Crack Climber's Classic at Penal Tower

Penticton, Canada
finger crack
wide crack
dihedral option
single pitch
trad climbing
Skaha
moderate grade
Length: 30 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
The Burglar's Dog
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Step off the battered sport routes and onto The Burglar’s Dog, a technically rewarding 30-foot trad climb at Penal Tower that guides you from delicate finger jams to wide fist cracks. Ideal for trad beginners craving authentic crack experience within reach of Skaha’s well-loved climbing hubs."

The Burglar's Dog: A Crack Climber's Classic at Penal Tower

Situated at the heart of Skaha’s rugged Penal Tower, The Burglar's Dog offers an invigorating trad climb that breaks away from the day’s sport routine. This single-pitch, 30-foot route invites climbers into a hands-on encounter with the rock’s evolving vanilla crack, beginning with narrow finger jams at the base and stretching to full-on, four-inch fists near the top. The natural progression tests technique and flexibility, rewarding steady rhythm and precise gear placements along the way. For those seeking variety, an alternative line veers left onto a clean dihedral, giving an escape from the crack or a fresh challenge with slightly different holds.

The rock’s texture here is a gritty canvas—providing excellent friction that encourages confident smears but demands respect for its rough edges. Climbers should come equipped with a rack ranging from thin .3 inch cams for the initial delicate sections to larger 4-inch placements to protect the wider top section, complemented by fixed bolted anchors for a secure top-out. The climb’s proximity to Skaha’s popular Fortress area makes it an accessible midday diversion when the sun’s warmth is just right.

Approach is straightforward, following a short trail from the main parking with light forest cover that shields the route during peak sun hours. The scene is alive with the sound of mountain breezes stirring the surrounding pines and the occasional bird call, adding a vivid soundtrack to your ascent. Climbers value The Burglar's Dog for its approachable grade of 5.9—a sweet spot that balances challenge and manageability, particularly for those transitioning from sport to trad or looking to hone crack technique.

Timing your climb in mid-spring to early fall maximizes comfort, avoiding the chill of winter mornings or the heat and crowded weekends of summer. Footwear with sticky rubber and a snug fit will improve jamming efficiency and edge control on the subtle flakes framed by this route. Hydration remains crucial, as the sun can intensify surprisingly quickly on the south-facing walls.

In essence, The Burglar’s Dog appeals to climbers eager to expand their trad repertoire in a setting that feels both immediate and unpretentious. This climb not only sharpens technique but also connects the adventurer with the tactile voice of the rock—a direct conversation between hand and stone that rewards everyone who answers the call.

Climber Safety

The crack’s rough texture can be abrasive, so protect your hands and check gear placements thoroughly—larger cams require careful positioning to ensure reliable protection. The proximity of the bolted anchors simplifies the belay, but be mindful of loose rock occasionally dislodged during ascent.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length30 feet

Local Tips

Start early to catch the morning shade before the wall warms up.

Wear tape or gloves if your skin is sensitive to crack roughness.

Use sticky rubber shoes with a tight fit for better jams and edging.

Plan for a quick approach hike of under 15 minutes from main parking.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9 grade here feels true to standard, with the crux lying in committing to the thin finger jams low on the route. The widening crack above eases into a more reassuring climb but demands larger gear placements and solid fists, making it an engaging pitch for intermediate trad climbers. Compared to other 5.9s in Skaha, it leans slightly on technical hand jams rather than sustained face climbing.

Gear Requirements

Bring cams from .3" to 4" to cover the crack’s full range. The route features solid protection opportunities throughout, finishing with convenient bolted anchors for a confident top-out.

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Tags

finger crack
wide crack
dihedral option
single pitch
trad climbing
Skaha
moderate grade