The Black Wall at Mt. Blue Sky - Alpine Multi-Pitch Trad Climbing in Colorado

Idaho Springs, Colorado
multi-pitch
trad
high-altitude
alpine exposure
rappel access
east-facing
committing
off-width
Length: 1200 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
multi-pitch
Protected Place
Mt. Blue Sky Alpine Zone
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"The Black Wall stands as Colorado’s premier high-altitude alpine climbing destination at Mt. Blue Sky. Offering a collection of committing multi-pitch trad routes accessed by rappelling, this east-facing wall challenges and rewards climbers who can handle the altitude and alpine exposure."

The Black Wall at Mt. Blue Sky - Alpine Multi-Pitch Trad Climbing in Colorado

Perched between 12,000 and 13,000 feet, The Black Wall on Mt. Blue Sky (formerly Mount Evans) offers a uniquely demanding and unforgettable alpine climbing experience. This collection of east-facing multi-pitch trad routes attracts climbers who seek long, committing climbs at lofty elevations where altitude and weather become part of the challenge as much as the rock itself.

Accessing this high alpine venue is a journey in itself. From the parking area beside the lake, climbers head north and ascend over a large hill, soon reaching a col where the approach terrain reveals itself. Here climbers find rappel anchors scattered along the top of the cliffs, which mark the starting points for a descent by rope into the base of the routes. While these anchors may not be immediately obvious, careful scouting near the col will reveal the fixed gear needed for safe descent, especially on the so-called Rappel Route line.

Weather is a wild card at Mt. Blue Sky even during prime climbing months. Sudden storms, temperature swings, and high winds are common, urging climbers to come prepared with layered gear, robust protection, and a flexible schedule. These factors, coupled with the fact that some routes demand intricate route-finding due to limited beta, reinforce the alpine commitment required here.

The climbing at The Black Wall is steeped in tradition and challenge. Routes predominantly hover around the 5.10 grade, with some pushing into 5.11 and 5.12 territory, making it appealing for strong intermediates to advanced climbers who want long, sustained efforts on solid alpine rock. Among the area's standout climbs, Good Evans is a classic 5.10d line that embodies the technical and mental demands of this alpine setting. Those drawn to off-width tactics will find the Road Warrior an unforgettable test of power and technique.

Additional classics such as Rainbow Highway (5.10, 4.5 stars) and High Variance (5.12, 4.5 stars) offer something for those craving variety and star-level routes. Each ascent unfolds against a backdrop of crisp mountain air and stunning views that stretch across the alpine expanse. For those with a passion for trad gear, a double set of cams including larger sizes is essential, while two 200-foot ropes are recommended for the rappels, making longer descents manageable and safe.

Given the elevation and remoteness, climb days here have a deliberate pace — approach times are moderate but require careful footwork over uneven terrain. Navigation on the ridge above the lake can be tricky, so referencing Peter Hubbel’s out-of-print "Front Range Crags" is a worthwhile preparation step. Online topographical info may supplement this but expect minimal detailed beta compared to more popular sport crags.

The Black Wall’s electrical atmosphere isn’t just about the physical ascents, but the tangible presence of alpine adventure in every move. Climbers come for the classic multi-pitch challenge embraced by routes like Coffee Achievers (5.10d), Phil-a-Guster (5.11a), and the adrenaline-fueled Mer Dascht (We Thirst) (5.11). These days spent above treeline offer a rare test of endurance, focus, and the rewarding solitude found only at altitude.

Accessibility is changing: Mt. Blue Sky Road will be closed for the 2025 climbing season, meaning all access will be on foot. This adds an extra layer of preparation — pack light but well, allow extra time, and plan your approach carefully. The col-based start means that despite the effort, climbers are treated to some of Colorado’s finest alpine trad routes surrounded by panoramic vistas that few other climbing areas can match.

If you are a climber keen on alpine multi-pitch adventures with a reassuring dose of technical challenge and spectacular mountain scenery, The Black Wall stands ready. Its tough routes, high altitude, and rugged approach create a climbing experience that rewards respect, preparation, and a taste for bold exploration. Take your gear, study your beta carefully, and prepare to enter one of the most iconic alpine climbing venues the Front Range has to offer.

Climber Safety

Expect rapidly changing weather and prepare accordingly. The approach and descents involve complex rappels with anchors that require careful route-finding. Adequate altitude acclimatization is recommended to avoid issues given the 12,000+ foot elevation.

Area Details

TypeTrad
Pitchesmulti-pitch
Length1200 feet

Local Tips

Approach involves hiking north from the lake parking, crossing a hill to reach rappel anchors near the col.

Be prepared for unpredictable alpine weather year-round; layer clothing and remain flexible with plans.

Mt. Blue Sky Road will be closed in 2025, so expect a longer, all-hiking approach.

Look for rappel anchors near the top of the Rappel Route; they can be difficult to spot at first.

Area Rating

Quality
Consensus:Routes range primarily from 5.10 to 5.12, reflecting sustained and committing alpine trad challenges. The grades here feel straightforward but the altitude and complex route-finding add mental strain, making them feel appropriately stiff. Climbers should compare this to other high alpine areas in Colorado rather than typical Front Range cragging.

Gear Requirements

Bring two 200-foot ropes for rappelling; anchors are fixed but can be hard to find. A full trad rack with emphasis on larger cams is essential. Refer to Peter Hubbel's Front Range Crags for beta andTopo info available online may assist but is limited.

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Tags

multi-pitch
trad
high-altitude
alpine exposure
rappel access
east-facing
committing
off-width