Exploring The Tan Buttresses - Granite Splendor and Alpine Adventure in Colorado

Idaho Springs, Colorado, Colorado
granite
alpine
scramble approach
multi-pitch trad
high elevation
south-facing
classic routes
Length: 300 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
single pitch, multi-pitch
Protected Place
Mt Blue Sky Alpine Area
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"The Tan Buttresses form a striking granite wall on the north side of The Black Wall cirque by Chicago Lakes, offering climbers solid alpine rock and rewarding routes near Gray Wolf Peak. Accessible by a rugged approach and boasting classic climbs like The Black and Tan Towers and Dog Fight, this area challenges and inspires climbers seeking quality high-elevation granite."

Exploring The Tan Buttresses - Granite Splendor and Alpine Adventure in Colorado

Rising sharply on the north edge of The Black Wall cirque near Chicago Lakes, the Tan Buttresses present a commanding granite face that rivals the best in Rocky Mountain National Park. This striking series of buttresses, cradled beneath Gray Wolf Peak, catches the eye from every angle in the cirque, hinting at the rewarding climbs that await those willing to make the alpine trek.

The granite here is solid and varied, a playground for climbers who crave both technical moves and expansive alpine exposure. The rock’s texture and quality compare favorably with the renowned walls of RMNP, offering crisp edges, cracks, and vertical faces that demand focus and skill. The Tan Buttresses deliver a classic alpine vibe, where the scenery fuels your ambition and the route-finding keeps your attention sharp.

Getting to the base is an adventure in itself — park at Summit Lake and follow the climbers’ trail up Spaulding, just as you would to reach The Black Wall. Along the cirque’s crest, a short trek leads to a ramp and ledge system on the right, where you’ll leave heavy packs and begin a careful scramble down to the rock’s foundation. This approach is straightforward for experienced alpine hikers but requires steadiness and care on the ledges.

At an elevation of 12,677 feet, the Tan Buttresses offer climbing at altitude, adding a layer of challenge—consider acclimatization if you’re not used to the thinner mountain air. The weather here is typical for Colorado alpine zones, with summer climbing best enjoyed from late June through September when the snow recedes and thunderstorms are mostly afternoon occurrences.

Classic climbs here include The Black and Tan Towers (5.9), Lazy Sunday Route (5.10), Dog Fight (5.10), Hard to Say (5.10), and Fallen Angel (5.11). These routes showcase a range of moderate to slightly strenuous climbs that blend technical sequences with bold exposure. While the grades suggest accessibility, each climb demands respect for alpine conditions and precise movement on quality granite.

The Tan Buttresses fall within the Mt Blue Sky area (formerly known by other names), renowned for its rugged alpine character and breathtaking vistas. Approaching the buttresses means leaving behind the road vehicle access for a season starting 2025, as Mt. Blue Sky Road closure requires a full hike-in approach. Plan accordingly for extra time and pack light but prepared.

Protection here calls for a traditional rack capable of handling a variety of crack sizes and placements. Though the area doesn’t offer sport bolts, the natural features afford solid gear placements making it suitable for those comfortable with trad gear management. The ledges and ramps simplify anchor setups for multi-pitch routes. Expect solid granite but always double-check placements in alpine environments.

The south-facing aspect of the buttresses means morning sun warms the rock early, while afternoons can offer shade and relief during Colorado’s warmer months. Spring and early fall provide crisp, cool air perfect for climbing if weather permits, though summer remains the prime window for most visitors due to snow conditions.

Descending usually involves downclimbing back to the ledge and ramp system or rappelling off established anchors on certain routes. Attention to route reversal and rockfall hazards is essential, especially when descending scramble sections after the climb.

Climbing The Tan Buttresses is an invitation to embrace alpine adventure balanced with technical challenge. Whether you're chasing the allure of classic moderate lines or seeking solitude amid sterling granite and mountain air, this area stands as a rewarding experience for climbers at home on solid rock and high terrain. Prepare well, move confidently, and soak in the vastness of Colorado's alpine granite that awaits beyond the trees.

Climber Safety

Care is needed on the ramp and ledge approach down to the base—the terrain requires cautious scrambling to avoid slips. At altitude, monitor weather for sudden thunderstorms. Always double-check gear placements given the alpine environment and test anchors thoroughly before committing to pitches.

Area Details

TypeTrad
Pitchessingle pitch, multi-pitch
Length300 feet

Local Tips

Park at Summit Lake and hike the climbers’ trail up Spaulding for the most reliable access.

Leave packs at the top of the ramp to reduce load during the scramble down to the base.

Check weather closely—afternoon storms are common in summer; start early.

Mt Blue Sky Road closure in 2025 means a full hike-in approach; plan extra time.

Area Rating

Quality
Consensus:The routes on the Tan Buttresses range from 5.9 to 5.11, generally offering straightforward alpine trad climbs with solid granite quality. The ratings feel true to the style - a touch of challenge in route-finding and protection but rarely sandbagged. Climbers familiar with RMNP will find the rock comparable, with a balance of technical crack work and striking exposure.

Gear Requirements

Bring a trad rack that accommodates a variety of crack sizes for secure placements. Expect natural protection only—no bolted sport routes here. Leave heavy packs at the top of the access ramp to lighten the scramble down to the base.

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Tags

granite
alpine
scramble approach
multi-pitch trad
high elevation
south-facing
classic routes