HomeClimbingSwiss Family Robinson

Swiss Family Robinson: A Classic Yukon Trad Adventure

Haines Junction, Canada
hand-jam crack
single pitch
trad gear
tricky placements
bolt clip
summer climb
Canada
Yukon
Length: 98 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Swiss Family Robinson
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Swiss Family Robinson delivers a compelling single-pitch trad climb on Yukon’s Swiss Wall. Featuring a standout right-leaning hand-jam crack and a mix of technical placements, this 5.9 pitch blends adventure with precise protection for climbers ready to test their skills in a wild northern setting."

Swiss Family Robinson: A Classic Yukon Trad Adventure

Swiss Family Robinson on the Swiss Wall in Paint Mountain invites climbers into a raw Yukon wilderness experience that balances gritty tradition with standout technical moves. This single-pitch, 98-foot climb stands out with a dynamic right-leaning hand-jam crack that demands smooth technique and attention to detail. The approach to the climb calls for traversing right before locking into the crack system, where a mix of laybacks and face moves tests your versatility on the rock. The hand-jam crack feels alive under your hands, as if the rock itself challenges you to sync with its pulse.

Above this key section, the climb shifts into more unconventional territory: expect a series of quirky placements requiring creativity and steady nerves. Before topping out, a single bolt offers a critical clip, providing some relief and security on a move that's trickier than the grade might suggest. Anchors are solid, offering a safe finish after the final push.

Beyond the climbing itself, the location carries the spirit of the Yukon’s rugged landscape—sharp air, distant peaks, and a quiet that amplifies each gear placement and breath drawn. Climbers should be prepared for changing weather and variable rock textures, making sure to bring a rack that covers up to 3-inch cams plus the essentials for a tough but rewarding lead.

Approach involves navigating the rough, forested terrain around Paint Mountain, with GPS coordinates aiding in pinpointing this less-traveled spot. The climb rewards those willing to embrace its challenges with an experience that mixes Yukon wilderness solitude and technical climbing satisfaction. Time your day to climb when the face catches morning or late afternoon sun, avoiding the brief but sometimes intense midday heat.

Swiss Family Robinson is perfect for trad climbers looking for a solid 5.9 pitch that feels honest but engages a broad range of skills. The variety in moves and protection makes it an ideal route for those ready to push into more adventurous territory, without stepping wildly beyond a familiar grade. Whether you’re local or traveling through, this route offers a slice of Canadian climbing with a straightforward but lively personality.

Climber Safety

The lone bolt near the lip is critical—don't skip clipping it. Some placements above the main crack are unusual and can be insecure; carefully assess each before trusting your protection. The rock can feel sharp in places, so watch your hand placements and avoid loose sections. Approach trails can be slippery when wet; plan accordingly.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length98 feet

Local Tips

Approach through dense forest; wear sturdy boots to handle uneven terrain.

Clip the lone bolt before the crux for a safety boost.

Bring a rack with cams up to 3" to handle odd placements beyond the hand-jam.

Start early or late in the day to avoid intense midday sun on the rock face.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:Rated at a solid 5.9, Swiss Family Robinson feels true to its grade with a distinct crux near the top after the bolt clip. The technical hand-jam crack challenges hand strength and finesse, while the unusual gear placements add extra complexity not often found on straightforward 5.9 routes. Comparatively, it edges slightly stiff for climbers used to gym or sport climbs but fits well into Yukon’s traditional climbing character.

Gear Requirements

The route requires a traditional rack with cams sized up to 3 inches to cover tricky, varied placements along the crack and upper sections. A single bolt exists for added security before the final challenging moves, making careful gear selection essential to protect the route safely.

Share Your Ascent

Upload your photos of Swiss Family Robinson and earn up to 3000 $ADVCOIN tokens.

Tags

hand-jam crack
single pitch
trad gear
tricky placements
bolt clip
summer climb
Canada
Yukon