HomeClimbingSweet Louise (Splash of Red)

Sweet Louise: A Classic 5.9 Trad Adventure at Paint Mountain

Haines Junction, Canada
crack climbing
roof crux
protected anchor
single pitch
Yukon climbing
Length: 89 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Sweet Louise (Splash of Red)
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Sweet Louise is a classic 5.9 trad route at Paint Mountain delivering a blend of funky crack climbing and a compelling roof crux. Perfect for climbers looking to hone crack techniques in a wild northern setting with solid protection and straightforward approach."

Sweet Louise: A Classic 5.9 Trad Adventure at Paint Mountain

Sweet Louise, also known by some as Splash of Red, offers climbers a sharp dose of Yukon Territory’s raw alpine character with an accessible yet thrilling 5.9 trad challenge. This single-pitch route, stretching 89 feet across Orange Corner in Paint Mountain near Haines Junction, threads its way upward through an unusual crack system, demanding both technique and focus to navigate its unique contours. The climb’s signature moment arrives at the roof near the top, where a committing move tests both strength and precision. Expect a blend of smooth jamming and calculated reach, where protection placement remains straightforward but requires attention to ensure safety. The sun drifts lazily across the northern wall throughout the day, often warming the rock as climbers ascend. Despite its relatively moderate length, the route commands respect thanks to the exposure surrounding it and the raw wilderness pressing close beyond the crag.

The approach to Sweet Louise is uncomplicated but sets the tone for an immersive outdoor day. Trails around Paint Mountain are clear enough to follow, passing through spruce forests that hum with the sound of distant wildlife. Haines Junction provides a quiet gateway town, situated roughly 15 minutes by car from the base, where climbers can gear up and gather last-minute supplies. Your rack should include a standard set extending up to 2-inch cams to comfortably protect the varied widths of the crack system. The bolted anchor at the summit simplifies your descent, ensuring a smooth rappel back to the ground.

This climb fits perfectly in any adventure itinerary focused on Yukon’s climbing scene. Its moderate technical demands make it approachable for trad climbers comfortable with 5.9 moves while presenting enough subtle challenges to keep seasoned veterans engaged. Whether you’re seeking to sharpen your crack climbing skills or savor a high-quality pitch that rewards methodical, thoughtful climbing, Sweet Louise delivers. Keep your feet secure, watch your hand placements, and prepare for a gritty yet rewarding stretch of climbing where every hold feels earned against the rugged northern exposure. Remember, this is wilderness climbing: weather can shift quickly, so plan your ascent during stable conditions, and bring layers to handle mountain breezes.

From the evocative patterns carved into the rock to the quiet majesty of the surrounding mountain views, Sweet Louise promises an adventure that’s both invigorating and grounded. The combination of distinct crack climbing with a safer, well-protected line encourages confidence while preserving that edge of wild unpredictability. Be prepared, keep focus, and let this Yukon classic remind you why trad climbing thrives as an art of commitment, calculation, and connection to place.

Climber Safety

The route’s protection is good but demands careful placements in the crack; the roof crux can feel strenuous and the exposure makes a fall riskier, so double-check gear placements before committing to moves.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length89 feet

Local Tips

Start early to catch the sun warming the northern-facing wall.

Wear sticky-soled shoes suited for crack jams to maintain foot security.

Use gloves or tape your hands if your skin is sensitive to crack friction.

Check weather forecasts carefully; sudden shifts can affect conditions quickly.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9 rating on Sweet Louise feels mostly accurate, with the crux move at the roof adding a spike in difficulty that requires a mix of power and technique. Compared to nearby lines, it’s a solid commitment but doesn’t push into stiff territory, making it a reliable test for climbers familiar with moderate cracks.

Gear Requirements

Bring a standard trad rack with cams up to 2" to handle the crack widths comfortably. The climb ends with a bolted anchor facilitating a safe rappel descent.

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Tags

crack climbing
roof crux
protected anchor
single pitch
Yukon climbing