Rising sharply from the rugged expanse of the Bugaboos, Snowpatch Spire offers a demanding alpine experience for climbers seeking a blend of technical challenge and high mountain adventure. Super Direct carves a compelling trad route along the spire’s West Face, inviting you into a diverse sequence of pitches that test both skill and composure. From a gritty 5.9 corner start to the powerful 5.10+ liebacks and stemming moves near the summit, this 900-foot route balances bold climbing with thoughtful protections, all set within the remote Purcell Mountains.

The approach to the climb threads through striking alpine terrain, where forested trails give way to stone-strewn basins echoing with the wind’s voice. Snowpatch Spire stands firm against the skyline, its sheer faces daring you upward. Early pitches negotiate clean cracks and corners with solid placements, gradually building into the more sustained and physical upper sections. What sets Super Direct apart is its mixture of sustained technical climbing and the variety of moves—hand jams, liebacks, body jams, and stemming—all packed into the seven pitches.

A key moment on pitch two now benefits from thorough cleaning, offering a 10c lieback sequence with excellent footholds and ample protection, turning what was once vague beta into a confidently climbable pitch. The later pitches feature intricate traverses along finger ledges interspersed with tight crack sequences, requiring trust in your gear and a steady head. Bolted rappel stations are conveniently placed throughout the route, allowing for secure descents.

Protection demands include a solid range of cams from 0.3 through #4 camalots, combined with nuts and long slings to manage awkward placements and lengthy runouts. The old fixed gear on some sections is supplemented by recent cleaning and maintenance, yet care is needed to inspect anchors during your climb. Climbers should prepare for variable weather, as the Purcells can shift rapidly between sun and sudden cold, making layered clothing, hydration, and timely start essential.

Super Direct rewards with sweeping views of the Columbia Mountains and a rare alpine solitude, perfect for those ready to push their limits with trad gear in a wild, high country setting. Whether you’re tagging this line as a peak objective or mixing it into a Bugaboos climbing itinerary, it offers a rich blend of physical challenges and alpine character. Approach carefully, climb precisely, and soak in the stark mountain air as you challenge your technique on this compelling west face.

This route is best tackled in late summer when snow has melted, and rock conditions are optimal. Expect to spend 5-7 hours on the route itself, with a moderate but steep approach adding to the adventure. Plan your descent with the bolted rappels in mind, and be prepared for careful navigation back to the base camp. Super Direct on Snowpatch Spire demands thoughtful commitment, but its variety and character make every move worth the effort.