High in the heart of British Columbia’s Bugaboos, North Howser Tower rises with unwavering boldness—a colossal west face of sheer granite that commands both awe and respect. At nearly 3000 feet tall, this is not just a wall; it’s a true alpine objective, drawing comparisons with legendary venues like the Cirque of the Unclimbables and Patagonia. For climbers seeking adventure in its purest form, North Howser’s reputation precedes itself: every route on this massive formation is a remote, serious quest. Here, you’ll find commitment written into every move, and reaching the summit is a badge of mountain mastery.

Accessing North Howser Tower is part of the adventure. The primary approach, via the North Shoulder Col, will humble even seasoned climbers. Starting from the welcoming lights of the Kain Hut or the bustling Applebee campground, you’ll climb up and over Bugaboo-Snowpatch Col—a notorious ordeal itself—before descending northwest along the Vowell Glacier’s undulations. When you finally reach the base of the north ridge, the journey isn’t over. The glacier’s expanse rolls on, leading you to the North Shoulder Col where the terrain steepens and the citadel-like aura of North Howser comes into full view. The descent into the west-side gully demands careful footing, as loose scree and slabs test your balance. At the glacier beneath the northwest face, efficiency is your ally—skirt right to avoid hidden crevasses, then traverse scree and more glacial debris southward to gain the tower’s daunting west face.

For those looking for a less-trodden (but no less serious) adventure, an alternative from East Creek Basin offers its own flavor of commitment. Here, climbers embark along the ridge west from the bivy, dropping into ledges and gullies that eventually demand three or four double-rope rappels. Without fixed anchors and with loose description, this passage is for the self-reliant, with skills sharpened by experience in untracked alpine environments.

If your dream is a legendary challenge, the route "All Along the Watchtower" (5.11) stands out. Already celebrated for its line and experience, this climb represents both a physical and mental test worthy of the wall. While the grade tells part of the story, the true difficulty comes from the Big Wall environment: huge exposure, variable weather, and the remoteness of the Bugaboos magnify every move. Here, climbing isn’t just about upward progress—it’s about embracing complexity, accepting unpredictability, and rising to meet the mountain on its own terms.

Seasons matter here, and choosing the right window is essential. The Bugaboos climbing season is at its prime from July through September, when the snow has retreated, and the weather patterns offer a brief respite from storms. Still, alpine conditions change quickly, and afternoon storms can transform benign rock into a hazardous retreat. Knowledge of recent conditions is key—not only for route safety, but also because access issues, like the significant rockfall incident on nearby Snowpatch Spire, can lead to temporary closures or travel advisories.

Out here, every step and hold is earned. The granite is clean and solid, but the mountain’s scale means you need to bring efficiency, focus, and a solid strategy. Protection is all traditional—bring a robust alpine rack, with an eye for nuts and cams in the full range of sizes, and don’t overlook your glacier travel kit. Route-finding and retreat skills are just as vital as your leading ability.

North Howser Tower is more than a line on a topo—it’s a demanding and profoundly rewarding setting for those who seek their limits in wild places. The summit rewards determination with sweeping views over glaciers and granite spires, but the richer reward comes long before the final anchor. It’s in the journey: the glacier crossings before sunrise, the quiet moments of exposure, the steadfast teamwork high on the wall, and the deep satisfaction of self-reliance in a truly remote corner of the climbing world.