Haffner Upper, affectionately known as the Hoar Cave, offers a refreshing alternative to the more frequented lower Haffner area, inviting climbers to step away from the crowds and into a quieter, wilder setting. Located within Banff National Park at an elevation of 5,149 feet, this secluded climbing spot rewards those who make the slightly longer trek with a blend of adventure and solitude.

The approach alone sets the tone for a day of considered climbing. In a good ice season, you might ascend directly up the canyon, tackling a brief WI2 ice step that leads right to the cave entrance. When ice conditions are absent, a trail diverges left just before the canyon, guiding you along its rim. This trail winds past the cave, from where a careful descent brings you to the climbing area. The approach demands respect but promises scenic payoff, with sweeping forested slopes and the quiet pulse of mountain air.

Climbers will find about 15 routes to choose from here, including standout classics such as Caveman (3.0 stars), Homoerectus (3.0 stars), and Fire Roasted (4.0 stars). These offerings bring a variety of challenges without overwhelming complexity, making the location appealing for intermediate climbers and those sharpening their skills. The area's grading remains moderate and approachable, allowing more focus on fluid movement and enjoying the natural setting.

While the rock type isn’t specified, the climbing environment underlines a rugged alpine character. The cave setting offers natural shelter, often providing protection from the wind and harsh sunlight, which means timing your visit for mid to late spring through early autumn will maximize your comfort. Shade and shelter here can be a crucial factor after long approaches or intensive pitches.

Haffner Upper’s charm lies in the quiet escape it provides. Unlike its busy lower counterpart, this area offers a dignified quietude, making every climb feel like a personal milestone rather than a shared crowd event. It’s not just a climb but an experience of remoteness within one of Canada's most celebrated mountain parks.

For practical planning, bring sturdy hiking shoes for the approach and be ready for short scrambling sections depending on conditions. Weather in Banff can turn swiftly, so layering is essential. Given the elevation, mornings can start crisp even in summer, and afternoon thunderstorms aren’t uncommon. The cave’s partial shelter will help if weather closes in while you climb.

Classic routes like Fire Roasted demand respect with their higher star rating, encouraging steady technique and solid protection habits. Since protection details are not available, climbers should prepare a versatile rack and be ready for alpine constraints. Confirming current conditions with local sources before heading out is always wise.

After climbing, descending usually involves retracing your steps to the rim trail or carefully dropping back down the canyon where possible. Hikers and climbers alike will appreciate alertness here as terrain from the cave back to the trailhead can be uneven and slippery, especially when wet or icy.

Haffner Upper represents an understated but invigorating Banff climbing destination. It’s designed for those who want more than just a route but a full day's respite in the mountains. The route's setting inside a protected national park means environmental respect benefits everyone—packing out all gear and minimizing impact helps preserve this raw alpine experience.

Prepare for a day that combines quiet wilderness hikes, sheltered cave climbs, and rewarding alpine views. Haffner Upper is a chance to escape the well-trodden trail and step deliberately into a less-visited corner of the Rockies, where steady rocks, fresh air, and a peaceful vibe come together seamlessly.