HomeClimbingStraight Into the Arms of Venus de Milo

Straight Into the Arms of Venus de Milo

Penticton, British Columbia Canada
overhung
technical
sport
finger crack
sustained
short climb
Length: 50 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Straight Into the Arms of Venus de Milo
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"A demanding 50-foot sport climb on Skaha’s southern crags, this route combines delicate, technical moves with sustained power. Its reputation for toughness challenges climbers to push beyond typical 5.11d expectations."

Straight Into the Arms of Venus de Milo

Straight Into the Arms of Venus de Milo challenges climbers with a lean, intense 50-foot face that demands both precision and power. This sport route, perched on the southern crags of Skaha in British Columbia’s striking Okanagan region, opens with a slightly overhung section where delicate, technical moves set the tone. Muscle and grace come into balance as climbers navigate the tweaky, finger-focused start. Short-legged athletes often find an advantage here, unlocking the crux with fluidity before the climb escalates into a sustained, physically demanding grind higher up the wall.

Though it logs as a 5.11d, this route carries a reputation for feeling tougher than its immediate neighbor, the popular 5.12a Not Fade Away. This means climbers shouldn’t be fooled by the rating; the sustained overhung climbing taxes endurance and power, making it a rewarding challenge for those ready to push beyond comfort zones. The rock’s textured surface offers solid friction, allowing toe hooks and small crimps to establish purchase, but hold sizes fluctuate, requiring a sharp eye and steady nerves.

Located in the southern cliffs of Skaha, the wall faces generally south, soaking in sun for much of the day, which makes it an ideal destination for cooler months or early mornings during warmer seasons. The area’s dry climate keeps the rock clean and fast, while breezes off nearby lakes provide refreshing relief. Approach trails wind through sage and juniper brush, leading climbers along well-marked paths that reward with views stretching over the Okanagan Valley’s vineyards and rolling hills.

Protection is straightforward: six fixed bolts and a chain anchor top off the line, allowing for quick clipping and confident leads. The route’s bolt spacing demands precise clip timing on the steeper sections, reinforcing the need for mental focus on every move. While gear is minimal, climbers should bring attention to footwork and maintain controlled breathing to sustain the effort on this short but taxing climb.

Descent is uncomplicated, with rap anchors at the top providing an easy lowering option. Climbers should be mindful of loose rock near the base and maintain communication during rappelling to ensure safety. Local climbers advise starting early in the day to avoid lingering afternoon heat and to enjoy the wall in cooler conditions.

Whether you’re sharpening your sport climbing skills or testing your limits on technical overhangs, Straight Into the Arms of Venus de Milo offers a compact, intense experience. It’s a vertical puzzle that rewards patience, body tension, and a willingness to embrace sustained power moves infused with subtle technical flair. Plan your visit during the shoulder seasons, pack light but smart, and prepare for a climb that both challenges and sharpens your abilities in one of Canada’s most dynamic climbing locales.

Climber Safety

Be cautious of loose debris near the cliff base and ensure solid clipping during the overhung crux section to avoid falls. The short length means falling near the bolt runouts carries added risk.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches1
Length50 feet

Local Tips

Start climbs early to avoid afternoon heat on the south-facing wall.

Short-legged climbers may find an edge on the crux due to body positioning.

Stay alert to loose rock at the base when approaching or descending.

Bring chalk to manage sweat on the technical, sustained overhang.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.11d
Quality
Consensus:Though rated 5.11d, this climb feels on the stiff side, given its sustained overhung nature and tricky crux. The technical opening section makes it sharper in difficulty compared to nearby routes like the 5.12a Not Fade Away, demanding both precise footwork and endurance.

Gear Requirements

Six bolts provide secure protection with a chain anchor at the top making for easy rappels. The bolt spacing requires focused clipping especially on overhung sections.

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Tags

overhung
technical
sport
finger crack
sustained
short climb