HomeClimbingState of Love and Trust

State of Love and Trust

Kelowna, British Columbia Canada
crimpy
short pitch
bolted
well-protected
kelowna classic
single pitch
face climb
Length: 35 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
State of Love and Trust
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"A striking Kelowna sport climb with a crimp-focused face that tests precision and stamina. Short but punchy, State of Love and Trust offers polished sequencing amid a well-protected, accessible setting perfect for climbers looking to sharpen their 5.12 skills."

State of Love and Trust

State of Love and Trust stands as a definitive Kelowna classic, inviting climbers to engage with a focused wall where precision and control reign supreme. Launching from the same base as Superfusion and Mass Fusion, this intimate 35-foot sport route draws you quickly into a world of sharp crimps and subtle footwork. As your fingers sync with the slender holds, the rock’s texture challenges your grip and rewards committed movement. The climb leans slightly right, offering a sustained sequence that demands both careful balance and sustained effort, making it a stellar testpiece for climbers pushing into the 5.12a range.

The Lonely Boy crags area, perched just outside Kelowna, British Columbia, feels alive with the hum of rugged mountain air and distant forests whispering in the breeze. The route's compact length means you can savor every move without distraction, heightening your focus on technique and rhythm. Approaching the wall, expect well-bolted protection that encourages a confident redpoint attempt. Chains at the descent ensure a straightforward, secure lowering.

For those planning to climb State of Love and Trust, timing and preparation sharpen the experience. Early morning light illuminates the face brilliantly, warming the stone to reveal its detail, while afternoon shade offers welcome relief on hotter days. Lightweight climbing shoes with sensitive toes will serve best as you juggle the crimps, and a moderate warm-up on nearby routes will prime your fingers for the intensity ahead.

The area’s accessibility from Kelowna means you can balance adventure with convenience, enjoying a short approach through lightly wooded terrain that introduces you to Lonely Crags’ rugged charm. This proximity allows for quick escapes after sends or to linger in the crisp mountain air and soak in expansive valley vistas. Remember to carry extra water and prepare for variable weather—conditions can shift rapidly in the Okanagan foothills, underscoring the importance of layering and readiness.

Whether you’re targeting a solid redpoint or simply seeking a compelling sport climb in a serene setting, State of Love and Trust blends approachable logistics with a challenge that resonates long after the climb is done.

Climber Safety

Bolted anchors and chains provide secure lowering, but climbers should remain cautious of loose rock near the approach and watch for wet conditions after rain, as the face can become slippery.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches1
Length35 feet

Local Tips

Arrive early to catch the warm morning sun on the face.

Bring sensitive shoes for precise crimp holds.

Warm up on nearby routes like Superfusion to prepare fingers.

Layer up for quick temperature changes common in the Okanagan foothills.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.12a
Quality
Consensus:This 5.12a is a balanced challenge that feels true to grade with no unexpected cruxes but demands sustained finger strength and technical footwork. Compared to other nearby climbs in the Lonely Crags, it is more technical than physical, rewarding finesse over brute force.

Gear Requirements

Fully bolted with fixed chains for lowering, bringing a straightforward lead experience with reliable anchors.

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Tags

crimpy
short pitch
bolted
well-protected
kelowna classic
single pitch
face climb