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Southwest Arete at Buttermilk Country

Bishop, California United States
airy
bold exposure
rock-over
trad crack
slab descent
top-rope anchors
Buttermilk Country
Eastern Sierra
Length: 50 ft
Type: Trad, TR
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Southwest Arete
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Southwest Arete offers climbers a striking ascent up one of Buttermilk Country’s tallest boulders, combining bold exposure with a classic trad climbing experience. This route stands out with its airy moves and memorable rock-over that demands focused precision."

Southwest Arete at Buttermilk Country

Rising sharply from the sprawling desert landscape of Buttermilk Country near Bishop, the Southwest Arete stands as a striking sentinel among giant boulders, offering climbers a uniquely airy challenge. At approximately 50 feet in height, this route carves its way up one of the tallest freestanding boulders in the region, making it a must-try for those drawn to bold, straightforward trad climbing with a distinct sense of exposure.Next to the classic silhouette of the arete itself, climbers begin slightly right on the face, carefully navigating a measured sequence of moves that veer left to meet the sharp edge. The rock's patina here feels raw underfoot and hand, giving a tactile confirmation with every deliberate step. Above, the arete narrows, leading to an exhilarating perch that catches the eye with its sweeping views across the desert basin, while below, the vast drop instills a thrilling reminder of altitude and exposure.The line’s defining moment appears where the lip of the arete juts outward—here, a memorable rock-over move demands confidence and balance. From this vantage point, there’s an undeniable thrill as the dropping void beneath you stretches nearly 35 feet. Conquering this passage is both a mental and physical touchstone for many who come to experience the route's unique blend of height and technical approach.

For descent, the route encourages a cautious retreat. The backside of the boulder falls away northeastward into a 45-foot slab graded at 5.6, which challenges climbers differently, demanding steady footwork and calm focus, particularly after the high adrenaline of the ascent. Top-rope anchors exist, lending an option for safer experimentation or for climbers less inclined to lead delicately on the exposed arete. These are especially useful when scouting moves or introducing new climbers to the rock’s texture and angle.

Accessing the Southwest Arete places you in the heart of Buttermilk Country’s open, sun-baked terrain where wide granite expanses hold the heat of the day and cool evening shadows. Early mornings or late afternoons are ideal for climbing here, as the sun shifts behind the nearby peaks, tempering the otherwise intense desert warmth. Hydration is critical, and solid footwear that grips the granite with precision will serve climbers well on both the route and the slab descent.

The Southwest Arete’s appeal lies in its blend of bold exposure and moderate technical demand—a perfect intersection for climbers ready to push their comfort zones but appreciate straightforward protection options. For those eager to seek out more routes in the area, Buttermilk Country offers an extensive playground of boulders and trad lines framed by the Eastern Sierra’s vast, rugged beauty. Planning your trip with weather conditions, daylight hours, and gear in mind will ensure a rewarding climb that lingers in memory long after the descent is complete.

Climber Safety

The descent slab (5.6) can be deceptively sharp and requires confident footing; ensure your shoes are sticky and approach this section with caution, especially when tired. Anchors exist but verify their condition before trust.

Route Details

TypeTrad, TR
Pitches1
Length50 feet

Local Tips

Start early in the day to avoid intense afternoon heat on the granite.

Use sticky rubber shoes for better grip on both the arete and the slab descent.

Bring plenty of water; the area offers little natural shade.

Scout the top-rope anchors before leading if unfamiliar with the route.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9-
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9- grade here feels approachable for experienced climbers but presents a mental edge due to its exposure and the rock-over move perched over 30 feet of air. The grade is consistent with nearby Buttermilk climbs but leans slightly optimistic thanks to the solid protection and clear beta available.

Gear Requirements

Top-rope anchors are installed, offering a safer backup or practice option. The descent requires careful negotiation of a 45-foot 5.6 slab, demanding comfort with moderate slab climbing and steady footwear.

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Tags

airy
bold exposure
rock-over
trad crack
slab descent
top-rope anchors
Buttermilk Country
Eastern Sierra