Peabody Boulders - Epic Highballs and Bold Lines in Bishop's Buttermilk Country

Bishop, California
highball
overhanging
big boulders
cruxy
exposed
Buttermilks
Eastern Sierra
Length: 45+ ft
Type: Boulder
Stars
Pitches
bouldering
Protected Place
Inyo National Forest
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Peabody Boulders rise as massive giants in Bishop's Buttermilk Country, presenting climbers with a rare mix of towering highballs and technical lines. From approachable classics to some of the boldest ascents in the region, this area is a must for seekers of exposure and granite quality."

Peabody Boulders - Epic Highballs and Bold Lines in Bishop's Buttermilk Country

Peabody Boulders stand as two of the most iconic giant blocs in the Bishop climbing landscape, offering a striking introduction to the Buttermilk Country climbing experience. From the parking area just below, these massive monoliths dominate the terrain with their sheer size and commanding presence. The sense of scale is immediate and humbling – it’s hard to believe that these colossal boulders were once part of a single formation, fractured by time and nature’s slow, deliberate forces.

Grandma, with its vibrant lichen-streaked northwest face, features climbing lines that challenge the climber’s ability on steep angles. For those craving height and exposure, the legendary Southwest Arete ascends more than 45 feet, delivering one of the best highball experiences in the region on solid terrain. Here, every move carries weight and consequence, perfectly matched by the exhilarating exposure and stunning views of the Eastern Sierra backcountry.

Not to be outdone, Grandpa offers a more intimidating profile with some of Bishop's most prized and serious ascents on its steep south face. Climbers eyeing serious challenges are drawn to ‘Evilution,’ a line known for its powerful overhang and technical demand, visible from the nearby road. The massive east face of Grandpa was the stage for the bold ascent of 'Ambrosia' – a 45-plus foot highball graded 5.14X, established by Kevin Jorgeson in 2009. This climb set a new bar for daring highball bouldering in the country.

For those ready to test their limits further, 'Lucid Dreaming' (V15), put up by Paul Robinson, stands as one of the area’s toughest lines. It features a formidable sequence requiring an agonizing pinch hold and huge dynamic moves, commanding respect from even the strongest climbers. Meanwhile, more accessible options such as the 'Cave Problem' (V4) on Grandma’s southwest face provide fun, technical climbs for those still sharpening their skills.

The climbing environment here is rugged but welcoming, positioned at about 6,400 feet of elevation among the arid, high-desert landscape of Eastern Sierra’s Buttermilks. Approaching the boulders is straightforward, with a parking area just before the formations on the right – an easy step right into this playground of granite.

Classic routes outlined include ‘Essential Peabody’ (V0) for those just getting a feel for the massive boulder terrain, progressing through more challenging climbs like 'North Face Direct' (V2) and the vibrantly rated 'Cave Problem' (V4). The grades ascend steeply to powerful tech-crunchers such as 'Go Granny Ho' (V7) and the famously arduous ‘Magnetic North’ (V8). The range offers something for every level, enticing climbers who appreciate a balanced yet intense bouldering session amidst breathtaking landscape.

Peabody Boulders catch the sun primarily on their northwest and south faces, making spring through fall the best season for stable temperatures and optimal climbing conditions. The rock’s texture holds well in cooler weather, and the lichen contributes both color and character, marking the lines climbers cherish. Protective pads are essential when attempting the highballs here, as falls demand precision in landing zones. Both the height and technical difficulty require solid mental focus and a well-prepared crash zone.

In sum, Peabody offers a blend of imposing height, technical depth, and mesmerising exposure that few bouldering spots can match. Whether you aim to send the monstrous highballs or enjoy the approachable classics, the experience leaves climbers with a deep sense of accomplishment and connection to this storied part of California’s Eastern Sierra. It’s a destination where adventure meets sharp technique on some of the cleanest granite in the region, promising both challenge and reward with every ascent.

Climber Safety

The towering height of many climbs, especially highballs exceeding 40 feet, makes padding and spotting essential. Falls can be serious on the overhanging faces, so climbers should carefully evaluate their mental readiness and utilize multiple pads. Also, watch for loose rock around the base and avoid climbing after rainfall when surfaces become slick.

Area Details

TypeBoulder
Pitchesbouldering
Length45+ feet

Local Tips

Arrive early to find parking as the lot fills quickly during peak season.

Bring 3 or more crash pads for the biggest highball lines, especially for climbs like Ambrosia and Southwest Arete.

Climb in cooler morning or late afternoon hours in summer to avoid the harsh midday sun.

Lichen stains rocks but adds traction; brush holds gently to preserve the rock’s condition.

Area Rating

Quality
Consensus:The Peabody Boulders feature a broad range of bouldering grades from beginner-friendly V0 to some of the hardest V15 lines in the country. The grading here tends to feel true to difficulty, without much soft grading or sandbagging. Climbers familiar with the Buttermilks will recognize the area’s hallmark blend of technical precision and bold exposure, comparable to classic highball bouldering zones like the main Buttermilk formations and well-known Bishop circuits.

Gear Requirements

Highballs up to 45+ feet require multiple crash pads and spotters. The steep, overhanging faces demand precise footwork and solid mental focus. Parking is conveniently located immediately before the boulders, providing easy access.

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Tags

highball
overhanging
big boulders
cruxy
exposed
Buttermilks
Eastern Sierra