HomeClimbingSlices of Quince

Slices of Quince: A Bold Sport Climb in The Fortress

Penticton, Canada
sport
technical
single pitch
finger strength
morning sun
British Columbia
Length: 73 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Slices of Quince
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Sharp moves dominate the lower section of Slices of Quince before the climb unfolds into smoother terrain. This sport route delivers 73 feet of focused technical challenges, making it a must-try for climbers looking to test their strength and precision in The Fortress area."

Slices of Quince: A Bold Sport Climb in The Fortress

Slices of Quince presents an intense yet rewarding challenge for climbers seeking a compact burst of technical sport climbing. Located in The Fortress area of Skaha, British Columbia, this single-pitch route cuts through the rock with a tight, demanding sequence that tests your finger strength and body positioning from the outset. The climb demands focus right from the bottom, where a series of sharp holds and precise moves push your limits before easing into less strenuous terrain as you near the anchor. Despite its modest length of 73 feet, this route captures the essence of Steep British Columbia sport climbing, combining a powerful start with a more manageable finish, crafting a climb that balances difficulty and flow.

Approaching the climb, the air hums with the energy of the surrounding valley, where the sun frequently warms the rock face, drying it quickly after summer rains. The Fortress itself is a compact crag surrounded by the rolling hills of the Okanagan, offering a raw and somewhat remote climbing experience that feels far from busy urban areas. Vegetation brushes faintly at the trail’s edges, and the occasional call of birds slices through the stillness, grounding you in a serene setting before the adrenaline surges.

This route leans heavily on sport protection, with nine bolts spaced for confidence and safety. Chains await you at the anchor, providing a secure finish point. Climbers can expect well-maintained bolts, though the technicality of the moves requires them to stay fully engaged through every clip and crimp. The grade settles at 5.10d, a stellar test for those comfortable with sustained sequences and sharp holds, fitting neatly into the higher-difficulty repertoire of the Skaha region.

Getting to The Fortress involves a short hike on a path that is easy to follow but includes some uneven terrain with rocky patches. It takes about 15 minutes from the main parking area, guided by GPS coordinates that direct you precisely to the base of the climb. This access keeps the approach simple while preserving the feeling of stepping into a wild pocket of climbing.

The wall’s aspect means it enjoys good morning sun and afternoon shade, making spring and fall the ideal seasons to tackle Slices of Quince. In warmer months, the rock can heat up quickly, so early starts help maintain friction and comfort. As always, sturdy footwear with sensitive soles will give an advantage on the smaller footholds, while a chalk bag is essential to keep sweaty fingers dialed for the crucial bottom moves.

The descent is straightforward with a single 70-foot rappel from the chains at the top. Be mindful to double-check your rappel setup as the terrain below can be uneven and rocky, making a smooth drop to the ground essential for a safe return. Packing a headlamp is advisable if you choose late afternoon climbs, as shadows can lengthen swiftly in this valley.

Slices of Quince embodies the spirit of modern sport climbing in British Columbia—focused, technical, and rewarding. With its compelling moves and clean protection, it offers an accessible yet challenging outing that will sharpen every climber’s technique while immersing them in the quiet strength of The Fortress range.

Climber Safety

While protection is reliable with well-placed bolts, the ledges around the base are narrow, and the rock can become slick when wet. Avoid climbing here after rain or during unstable weather to reduce slip risk. The rappel requires attention as the landing zone features uneven ground with loose rock.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches1
Length73 feet

Local Tips

Start early to take advantage of morning sun and avoid heated rock in summer.

Bring plenty of chalk for the demanding lower moves that require finger strength.

Use sensitive climbing shoes to improve grip on small footholds.

Double-check your rappel setup at the anchors to ensure a safe descent.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10d
Quality
Consensus:Rated a solid 5.10d, Slices of Quince offers a stiff challenge, particularly at the bottom where the hardest sequences demand precise footwork and finger endurance. The grade reflects the climb’s sustained technicality, although the upper section relaxes slightly, providing some relief before top-out. It sits comfortably among other skilled routes in the Fortress, making it a good test for climbers stepping into harder sport terrain around Skaha.

Gear Requirements

Nine well-spaced bolts protect this route with a secure chain anchor at the top. Quickdraws and a standard sport climbing rack are sufficient to climb safely.

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Tags

sport
technical
single pitch
finger strength
morning sun
British Columbia