Sleepy offers a welcoming introduction to trad climbing within the vibrant Red Tail Group of Skaha’s unique climbing landscape. This single-pitch route stretches roughly 20 feet, providing an engaging yet approachable challenge graded at 5.5—a perfect option for climbers easing into trad or those seeking a quick warm-up with enjoyable movement. The climb starts by working up and slightly left along a friendly crack system, where broad jugs invite confident hand placements and allow for controlled, steady progress. Kneebars appear as natural rests along the way, offering moments to regroup and appreciate the surrounding rocky landscape.

Positioned on the sun-kissed Red Tail Group cliff, Sleepy enjoys a mostly south-facing aspect, catching the warmth through much of the day, especially in cooler seasons. The approach is brief and straightforward, requiring a short hike down from the main trail cutting through the Seven Dwarfs section. Locating the route is aided by two bolts forming a reliable anchor at the top, supplemented by two additional anchors on the upper cliff face, elevating safety and convenience for top-rope setups.

Protection for Sleepy leans light, favoring a well-placed traditional rack with extra attention on secure placements as the crack widens in sections. The presence of bolts at the anchor alleviates concerns about building slings or equalizing gear around irregular features, streamlining the descent and lowering risk.

This route’s charm comes from its approachable style and steady grade that encourages climbers to focus on movement rather than battling difficult holds. The generous grips and natural body positioning options make it an inviting climb at any pace, whether you’re refining trad techniques or simply enjoying the warm Okanagan sun. The surrounding rock’s texture is solid, presenting reliable friction even on warmer days.

Skaha’s Red Tail sector is part of a larger cluster of varied cliffs, making Sleepy a great starting point before exploring more challenging climbs nearby. Early season and late fall visits are ideal to avoid summer heat, and mornings bring gentle shade before the wall fully basks in sunlight. The short walk-in and well-protected anchors favor climbers aiming for an efficient and scenic climbing session.

For those preparing to try Sleepy, bring standard trad rack gear with a focus on cams sized to moderate cracks and a light quickdraw set to clip anchors. Good approach shoes will handle the compact terrain, while a helmet is recommended due to loose rock and occasional debris on the ledges. This climb’s straightforward line and positive holds provide both confidence and satisfaction, making it a solid addition to your Skaha itinerary.