"SE Arete carves a classic line up The Cleaver’s granite spine, blending steady alpine climbing with dependable protection. Its straightforward pitches unfold in a high-country setting that rewards both skill and stamina with expansive views and solid granite."
SE Arete presents an invigorating slice of alpine climbing where straightforward moves meet the raw beauty of the High Sierra. Anchored along The Cleaver’s rugged skyline, this six-pitch route stretches over 1000 feet of solid granite that invites climbers to tread carefully yet confidently. Though the crux remains a faint memory for many who’ve made the ascent over the years, the route itself rewards with clean rock and a rhythm that flows naturally amid the vast, high-country environment. The path climbs steadily, with protection that demands a typical alpine rack—friends, cams, and nuts—once pushing to the limit of large #3 Friends but mostly relying on solid placements in cracks that the mountain offers generously.
Approaching The Cleaver requires navigating alpine trails that shift between dense pine stands and open granite slabs catching persistent sunshine, imprinting a warm glow on climbers as they gear up. The route’s face carries subtle personality, with smooth edges and well-placed cracks providing secure holds and protection opportunities. Each pitch guides you higher into an ever-widening panorama of peaks and valleys, the air thinning as you ascend and the mountains around you stretching far beyond the immediate frame.
Despite its straightforward nature, the SE Arete demands respect: the length and alpine setting mean conditions can shift quickly. Preparation involves layering for temperature swings and choosing footwear that balances precision with grip for varied granite textures. Hydration is critical; the approach and the climb itself encourage steady sipping to match steady effort. Early starts help avoid afternoon thunderstorms common in this part of California’s Sierra Nevada.
This route offers a rewarding blend of adventure and accessibility. Whether you're fine-tuning your alpine trad skills or seeking an inspiring way to enjoy the High Sierra’s scale, SE Arete serves up classic climbing with a no-frills honesty. At the top, the vista—open skies, distant peaks, and the immense quiet—reminds you why these mountains test and beckon so many. The descent, by rap or careful downclimb, calls for steady nerves and attention, as granite slabs can catch sunlight fiercely, creating spots of loose rock or slick surfaces after cooler mornings.
For those drawn to alpine granite with solid protection and a reliable route, SE Arete fulfills that craving. It invites climbers to move with respect for the mountain’s personality, challenging without overwhelming and rewarding patience with serene, elevated views. This climb is a measured invitation to experience the High Sierra’s tradition of alpine climbing, where every pitch offers both a test and a chance to breathe in pure mountain air.
Though the rock quality is generally solid, loose blocks occasionally litter the slabs near the base and along some ledges—exercise caution when moving or belaying. Afternoon weather in summer can flip rapidly from blue skies to electrical storms, so monitor forecasts closely.
Start early to beat the heat and avoid afternoon storms common in the High Sierra.
Bring a full set of cams including a #3 Friend or equivalent for larger crack sections.
Wear slayer-optimized climbing shoes with good edging performance on granite.
Hydrate consistently on approach and during the climb; water sources are limited near the base.
A standard high country rack covers this route well; packs should include cams and nuts sized up to a #3 Friend for tougher placements. No fixed gear is present, so be prepared to place your own protection on solid cracks throughout the climb.
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