"The Winged Horse rises quietly above Lower Boy Scout Lake as a seldom-climbed sub-peak of Mt Carillon. Offering solid Sierra granite and a peaceful alpine setting, it’s a perfect warm-up for climbers seeking solitude away from the busier Whitney routes."
The Winged Horse, also known as the Springbok, stands as a distinctive sub-peak of Mt Carillon, quietly rising above the serene waters of Lower Boy Scout Lake in California’s High Sierra. This south-facing granite formation may not command the crowds like nearby Whitney or Russell Peaks, but its rugged presence offers a compelling alternative for climbers looking to escape the usual throng. The Winged Horse’s clean lines and classic Sierra granite provide an excellent stage for an afternoon of climbing, making it an ideal warm-up peak or a peaceful side venture for those with extra time in their itinerary.
Approaching this rarely climbed formation brings a mix of wilderness tranquility and practical considerations. The route to Lower Boy Scout Lake, accessed via the North Fork of Lone Pine Creek, is marked by forested trails and gradual elevation gain up to base camp territory around 11,363 feet. From here, climbers navigate a use trail that skirts the East Face of Mt Carillon, then traverse right to the base of the Winged Horse’s walls. This path avoids the need for a Whitney Zone permit if your excursion remains around the lake itself, but a quick call to the permitting office to identify your objective as a sub-summit of Carillon is a smart step. Keep in mind, though, that seasonal restrictions limit access to some peaks in this watershed between May and October.
The climbing itself is grounded in tradition and solid history. The original 1972 American Alpine Journal report recounts Fred’s pioneering ascent up the South Face, naming the formation The Winged Horse, a testament to its unique profile and standing just east of the Impala. While only a handful of routes are established here, the area’s standout classic climb, Adios Yahoos (5.10), draws respect from those who seek a technical challenge amidst this under-the-radar locale. The granite’s texture delivers confident friction, while the south-facing aspect promises warming rays during cooler seasons.
Climbers venturing here will find the rock quality typical of the Sierra granite—solid and reliable, though with the usual caution warranted at altitude. The Winged Horse’s 11,363-foot elevation means weather can shift quickly, so an early-season trip or a well-planned summer climb will maximize favorable conditions and daylight. The south-facing walls absorb sunlight throughout the day, providing approachable warmth in the crisp mountain air, but late afternoon shadows descend quickly as nearby peaks hijack the sun.
Descent options favor a walk-off along established trails leading back to Lower Boy Scout Lake. The approach and retreat require solid fitness and awareness of elevation impact, yet reward climbers with sweeping views of the alpine basin and a rare solitude hard to find on the busier Sierra routes. Whether you’re chasing quiet alpine encounters or scouting a strategic warm-up for climbs on Whitney or Russell, The Winged Horse delivers an honest, rugged experience.
Packing your gear for this adventure means including standard alpine rack components, with emphasis on versatility since fixed gear is minimal. The limited number of routes suggests a lighter rack is sufficient, but be prepared for mixed protection styles and bring sturdy boots for the approach’s rocky terrain. Pay close attention to inyo National Forest regulations governing seasonal closures to ensure your trip isn’t interrupted by access limits.
In essence, The Winged Horse offers a piece of untouched High Sierra climbing—quiet granite walls that reward attention, preparation, and timing. Its understated profile belies a climbing experience rooted deeply in Sierra tradition and alpine practicality. For climbers who relish an off-the-beaten-path challenge wrapped in breathtaking mountain scenery, this formation above Lower Boy Scout Lake stands ready to welcome you.
Watch for seasonal access restrictions from May to October that may limit climbing opportunities. Weather at 11,363 feet can shift abruptly, so prepare for colder conditions despite the south-facing aspect. The descent is straightforward but be alert on rocky trails returning to camp.
Approach from Lower Boy Scout Lake via the North Fork of Lone Pine Creek.
No Whitney Zone permit needed if camping at Lower Boy Scout Lake and climbing the Winged Horse as a sub-summit.
Check seasonal access restrictions—May through October closures apply to some peaks in the watershed.
Bring layers and be prepared for afternoon temperature drops on this south-facing, high elevation wall.
Standard alpine rack recommended with emphasis on versatility. Minimal fixed gear on routes calls for a solid trad rack. A light rack suffices given the limited route number but expect varied protection styles.
Upload your photos of and earn up to 3000 $ADVCOIN tokens.