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Riding With the King: A Classic Sport Climb at Secret Crag

Boulder, Colorado United States
sport climbing
multi-pitch
granite plates
corner crack
Eldorado Mountain
beginner multi-pitch
Length: 130 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
2
Location
Riding With the King
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Riding With the King presents an inviting 5.9- sport climb at Secret Crag that balances solid rock with engaging moves over two pitches. Its varied features and manageable length provide a rewarding outing for climbers looking to sharpen their multi-pitch skills near Boulder."

Riding With the King: A Classic Sport Climb at Secret Crag

Riding With the King stands out as a welcoming yet engaging route tucked into Colorado's Secret Crag, a quiet corner on Eldorado Mountain near Boulder that calls to climbers eager for quality rock and straightforward challenge. This is a climb that offers more than just easy pitches—it delivers a chance to engage with the vivid character of Eldorado’s granite, showcasing smooth plates, chunky crystals, and crisp edges that reward careful footwork and steady hands.

The approach to Riding With the King is direct, warning you from the outset with a tough move at the first bolt that demands respect. Starting just right of the belay, climbers face a choice: approach that initial bolt head-on, requiring precision and balance, or move slightly left to find an alternate line. As your fingers grip the angled pockets and your feet scan for solid stands, the rock here feels alive—a little rough in places but largely solid and reliable. Passing four bolts, you encounter a section where the rock loses some integrity with a red band, calling for careful touch and controlled movement.

Clearing the overhang at a notch marks a shift in the climb. At this point, the leader disappears from view as the route bends right into a corner that creates a natural sneak peak of what’s to come. This corner, with its right-facing crack and angle, demands commitment but rewards good balance and use of body positioning. Climbers find a comfortable ledge here, a welcome rest and staging point with an optional two-bolt belay—a practical spot to organize gear or support a second's tricky move on the first pitch.

If tackled as one pitch, the climb extends upwards over solid crystal plates and chunky pebble features, with a few crux moves that test finger strength and mental focus. The line gradually trends left before settling into the anchors crowned atop 130 feet of varied stone. These final moves feel like riding a wave of textured granite, the sun filtering through pines and the wind carrying sounds from the valley below.

Protection leans heavily on sport bolts: fourteen in total if you push through as a single pitch, or eight draws if breaking it into two. The key to smooth climbing here is managing rope drag—long slings on the first several bolts are essential to keep your rope running clean. This thoughtful planning reduces friction and lets your movement flow freely, an important factor on this route with its subtly shifting line.

Secret Crag itself, though often overshadowed by Eldorado's more famous faces, offers airy exposure and quiet solitude that suit both newer climbers making their step into multi-pitch terrain, and seasoned climbers seeking a less crowded challenge. The rock quality is mostly top-notch with moments that poke their head just enough for you to stay alert. The climbing is straightforward, yet offers pockets of excitement and variety, from plates to corners, making every clip and move feel purposeful.

Riding With the King’s orientation makes afternoon ascents particularly pleasant as the wall catches light without baking in the sun, while spring and fall present ideal windows to avoid extreme heat or winter snow. The short approach means you can easily fit this climb into a half day’s adventure, leaving time for exploring Eldorado’s surrounding trails or lingering in Boulder’s vibrant outdoor community.

Prepare for this route with durable shoes boasting sticky rubber, a day rack containing 8 quickdraws, at least four long slings, and plenty of water to stay sharp. The risk here is manageable but notable: watch for the suspect red zone early on, and stay aware when leading invisible sections beyond the notch, where good communication and precise rope management keep all partners safe.

In sum, Riding With the King delivers an accessible, engaging climb with features and terrain that invite both exploration and focus—an excellent choice at Secret Crag to experience Eldorado Mountain’s granite personality without getting lost in complexity.

Climber Safety

Watch the suspect red band near the start for loose rock—maintain careful placements and avoid excessive force on questionable holds. Rope drag can become an issue without long slings, especially if climbing the route in one pitch, so plan your gear accordingly. Communication beyond the notch can be tricky as the leader goes out of sight; clear signals are essential.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches2
Length130 feet

Local Tips

Start right of the belay and prepare for a challenging move at the first bolt.

Use long slings on the first four bolts to minimize rope drag.

Consider belaying at the notch ledge for easier communication and to tighten the belay on the crux move.

Climb in spring or fall for the best temperatures and wall conditions.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9-
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9- rating here feels accessible yet honest. The crux move at the start demands strong fingers and precise footwork, but the overall route is straightforward. Compared to other local Eldorado climbs, this one offers a slightly softer grade with manageable rests and solid protection, making it a great step-up climb for those bridging into multi-pitch sport routes.

Gear Requirements

14 bolts and anchors secure the line if climbed as a single pitch; splitting into two requires 8 draws plus anchors. Bringing 4 long slings is recommended to reduce rope drag through the initial bolts, ensuring smooth rope management and safer leading.

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Tags

sport climbing
multi-pitch
granite plates
corner crack
Eldorado Mountain
beginner multi-pitch