"Repulsion Convulsion offers climbers a renewed challenge on a previously rough-edged sport route in Elevenmile Canyon. With refreshed bolts and a secure anchor, this 90-foot climb blends technical moves with the rugged ambiance of Colorado’s granite walls."
Repulsion Convulsion at Elevenmile Dome unfolds along a sheer 90-foot wall that commands attention from the moment you step onto its base in Elevenmile Canyon. Once a route skirted by climbers for its sketchy bolts and lack of a solid anchor, this climb has been reborn with a thoughtful bolt-upgrade that transforms the experience into one both secure and engaging. The rock here maintains the raw character of South Platte granite—rough enough to hold but unforgiving enough to keep you focused through every move.
The climb’s sport nature makes it approachable for many, but the 5.9- rating hints at subtle challenges—crux sequences that urge steady feet and mindful breathing. You’ll notice the bolt spacing now encourages confident clipping, eliminating the previous threats of groundfall, while the new two-bolt chain anchor offers a reliable top-out haven. Standing on the circular platform at the top, the expansive canyon views stretch ahead with a gentle whisper of the South Platte River in the distance, daring you onward.
Accessing Repulsion Convulsion means heading into the rugged heart of Elevenmile Canyon where the landscape shifts from pine-dotted trails to raw granite faces. The approach is straightforward yet offers a sense of quiet wilderness—expect a short hike peppered with locals gathering gear and scouting conditions. Bringing a 60m rope is essential, not only because it neatly handles the route’s length but also because it allows for a clean rappel or ease of top-rope setup. The climb’s bolts retain a solid feel, but as with all granite of this age and exposure, a keen eye on rock quality and bolt integrity is prudent.
The route offers a mix of technical jamming and face climbing, with textured holds that reward finger strength and precise footwork. It’s a route that invites concentration—no runaway moves but persistent complexity. The mornings bring cooler air and shaded rock here, making spring and fall prime times to push your limits, while summer afternoons can heat the lower wall into solid, sun-warmed granite.
Whether you’re following the clip sequence or setting up for a top-rope session, bring sturdy shoes designed for edging and smearing on granite’s gritty texture. Hydration is key; the dry air can sneak up as you focus above the base. Locals recommend packing a light windbreaker as weather in the canyon can shift with surprising rapidity. Repulsion Convulsion balances polished sport climbing with a rugged canyon setting—perfect for those seeking an accessible yet thoughtfully challenging route off the beaten path in Colorado’s climbing scene.
Previous versions of this route had hazards from poor bolts and no anchor, but after upgrades, the risk of groundfall has been removed. Climbers should remain cautious with rock quality at the base and always verify the integrity of fixed gear before committing.
Bring a 60m rope for efficient rap and top-rope setup.
Climb early morning or late afternoon in summer to avoid the hottest sun exposure.
Wear shoes with good edging capabilities suited for granite textures.
Check bolt conditions as granite can hold fast, but always stay attentive.
The route is protected by 7 bolts plus a two-bolt chain anchor, totaling 9 bolts. A 60m rope is recommended for both climbing and rappelling. The bolts have been recently upgraded to remove past groundfall risks, making it safer to lead or set top ropes from the new anchor.
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