"Rats Will Play offers a sharp, single-pitch challenge combining crack and bolt protection along a thin, uneven line in The Fortress, Skaha. Expect a precise mix of gear placements topped by a bolted anchor that rewards steady technique and thoughtful pacing."
Rats Will Play stakes its claim just to the right of the popular Looking Glass climb in The Fortress, a bold wall within Skaha’s rugged corridor. This single-pitch, 75-foot route offers a distinctive blend of crack and bolt protection, demanding a pragmatic mix of traditional gear and quickdraws to manage its varied challenges. The climb begins along a narrow, uneven crack that tests your ability to read the rock and place gear with precision. Early sections feel a bit rough, with rock quality that calls for careful footwork and a steady hand. However, as you progress higher, the stone settles into a firmer, more dependable texture that rewards persistence.
The climb draws you slowly upward, the intermittent crack moving through patches that require both finger and hand jams, punctuated by bolted stances that offer reassurance amid the technical moves. Each placement is purposeful, with protection spaced to encourage deliberate progression rather than rapid movement. The fixed anchors at the top provide a safe and straightforward belay spot, allowing for a comfortable transition to descent. Beyond the climb itself, The Fortress grants expansive views of the Okanagan landscape, with the dry desert air carrying distant calls of local wildlife and the occasional whispering breeze through sparse foliage.
Planning your ascent means balancing the excitement of the mixed climbing style with the practical need for a well-rounded rack. A full single rack complemented by quickdraws for bolts covers the protection demands, while sturdy climbing shoes with sensitive edging capability will boost your grip on the varied terrain. The approach to this wall is straightforward, making it accessible for both locals and visitors aiming for a focused, substantial day in the mountains.
Prepare for sharp sun during summer afternoons; the wall faces a southerly aspect that heats up quickly, so starting early in the day or later in the afternoon can offer more comfortable conditions. Hydrate well and bring sun protection, especially given the exposed nature of the approach and belay spots. With a solid mix of technical crack climbing and bolted security, Rats Will Play invites climbers to sharpen their gear-placement skills while soaking in the distinct arid beauty of British Columbia’s premier climbing corridor.
The initial section presents lower-quality rock that demands cautious movement and deliberate protection placement. Loose rock occasionally appears, so helmet use is strongly recommended. Approach sections have minimal shade, raising the risk of dehydration on hot days.
Start early to avoid strong afternoon sun on the south-facing wall.
Wear shoes with precise edging capabilities for better grip on rough lower rock.
Hydrate sufficiently before and after the climb; shade is limited on the approach.
Check fixed bolts for condition due to mixed protection style before leading.
Bring a single rack of cams and nuts to handle the crack section, supplemented by quickdraws for the bolts. A standard rack covers placements, but be ready for delicate gear placements in the lower section where rock quality is less consistent.
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