"Raquel’s Yellow Bikini offers a short but dynamic 5.8 sport climb on large holds and energizing underclings. Located in the quieter Ciao Bella! area near Durango, it’s an ideal route for climbers seeking controlled power and smooth movement on quality bolts."
Raquel’s Yellow Bikini presents a focused dose of sport climbing just east of the main undercling climb in the Ciao Bella! area of Junction Creek, near Durango, Colorado. At 50 feet, this single-pitch route demands fluid movement on big holds that invite confident hand jams and dynamic reaches. The climb begins with straightforward, solid holds that guide you steadily to a comfortable stance, where a subtle flake offers a moment to recalibrate. From here, expect a noticeable shift in technique as you engage with a series of underclings and sizable grips on the left side, pulling powerfully toward a ledge that holds the anchor. This roof section is the signature challenge—bold and physical—it rewards climbers who commit fully, as it leads directly to the first free ascent spot.
The rock quality here supports a predictable series of moves, bolted well for a clean ascent with no need to test your gear placements. This route demands a mix of strength and subtle balance, perfect for climbers comfortable stepping into the 5.8 grade but looking to refine their movement dynamics on sport climbs. The wall faces east–offering morning shade that gradually transitions to sun by midday, making spring and fall ideal climbing seasons before the summer heat builds.
The approach to Raquel’s Yellow Bikini is straightforward with an access trail running from Durango’s outskirts deep into Junction Creek canyon, just beyond the primary Ciao Bella! sectors. A trek of about 15 minutes over moderate terrain will bring you to the base, where towering cliffs and whispering pines set the scene. Climbers should remain alert to loose rock on the trail and prepare for sudden changes in weather common to this semi-arid environment.
Practical gear notes: bring a sport rack or quickdraws—bolts are confidently spaced for clipping security but expect the moves to require power rather than protection strategy. Hydration remains crucial; the creek nearby offers a serene backdrop, but don’t rely on it for water. Footwear with sensitive edging will help you negotiate slick faces and undercling pockets with precision.
After topping out, rappelling down is the standard descent method. Two fixed anchors ensure a safe return to the ground without scrambling exposed ledges. The broader climbing area enjoys relative quiet compared to busier spots, giving this climb a sense of private challenge amid sweeping views of the canyon. Climbers seeking a brief but engaging sport route with a blend of dynamic moves and reliable protection will find Raquel’s Yellow Bikini an accessible test piece in the Durango climbing landscape.
Although bolted well, the roof requires controlled movements to avoid swinging falls. Watch for loose rock along the approach trail, especially after rainfall. Rappel anchors are fixed, but always double-check before descending.
Start early to climb in the morning shade before the wall heats up.
Use climbing shoes with good edging sensitivity for undercling sections.
Stay hydrated and carry water; the nearby creek is not reliable for drinking.
Rappel down using the fixed anchors rather than downclimbing for safety.
This route is fully bolted, so bring a standard sport rack and quickdraws. The holds are large and the protection solid, with no need for additional trad gear.
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