"The Index towers west of Animas Mountain in Colorado’s Weminuche Wilderness, offering a remote, challenging trad climb with superb rock quality and near-complete solitude. Navigating the soft scree approach and finding the hidden trail are key to unlocking this rugged alpine adventure."
Rising sharply west of Animas Mountain, The Index stands as a striking block-topped tower deep within Colorado’s Weminuche Wilderness. At 13,420 feet, it demands respect not only for its altitude but for its raw character—offering an experience laced with solitude, a touch of wildflower-lined scree, and a rock quality surprisingly refined for the rugged San Juans. The approach itself is a test of navigation and persistence, beginning with a less-traveled spur from the Ruby Lake trail. From the small settlement of Needleton, you’ll push upstream, away from the crowds headed to Chicago Basin. Passing through meadows fringed by remnants of old cut logs arranged like chairs around a campsite, the trail here vanishes at times—requiring sharp eyes and determination to locate the faint Ruby trail on the east side of the clearing.
Expect a steep climb taking about two to three hours to reach Ruby Lake, followed by another hour ascending to the upper basin. Once there, the summit of The Index looms prominently – though deceiving from above – as the tallest of three towers some 200 feet above your perch. Animas Mountain casts a sweeping shadow to the north, with its sprawling blocks and pillars, but head westward into the correct access gully just left of a prominent W-shaped notch, avoiding the obvious but misleading large gap nearby.
At the top of your approach gully stands a substantial chockstone - a sentinel offering a low fifth-class option around its right side and a direct, hands-on challenge through its center. Climbing beyond opens into unbroken exposure, where the real climbing begins. The Index’s signature route, the FA Route (5.9), demands technical precision on a classic less-than-vertical hand crack. Belaying from the base of the leftmost, shortest tower provides a stable platform to test your skills against solid San Juan stone.
This climb rewards those willing to endure the soft scree slog and meticulous route-finding with near-complete solitude that’s rare in Colorado climbing. Wildflowers pepper the approach if you keep a mindful step, and the remote wilderness offers sweeping views of towering peaks and the sparseness of untouched alpine terrain. The Index is best visited during the prime climbing window from June through September, where weather generally favors crisp, clear days, but always prepare for sudden mountain shifts.
Gear-wise, bring a traditional rack suited for finger to hand cracks and expect minimal fixed protection. The rock’s excellent quality, unusual for the region, demands confident technique and placing pro on good rock. Descending involves retracing steps carefully, with no established rappel anchors—making sure you’re comfortable with downclimbing and route-finding in remote terrain.
In all, The Index is a jewel for climbers seeking a bold, solitary alpine adventure that blends old-school crack climbing with a navigation puzzle and remote wilderness access. It’s not a summit you stumble onto but one you earn with patience and skill. Classic climbs like the FA Route (5.9) showcase the area’s character — solid hand cracks and clean lines that beckon the trad climber who craves challenge beyond the beaten path.
Be cautious along the scree approach, which is loose and can become slippery, particularly after rain. Wildflower patches demand care to avoid damage. The descent requires downclimbing without fixed anchors; ensure you are comfortable with exposure and route-finding in remote terrain.
Finding the Ruby Creek trail is tricky – scout the east side of the clearing thoroughly.
Watch your step on the scree approach to protect the delicate alpine flora.
The chockstone at the gully’s top can be bypassed on the right with easy 5.0 climbing.
Prepare for a long approach - 2-3 hours to Ruby Lake plus an additional hour to the upper basin.
The route requires traditional gear suited for hand and finger cracks. Fixed protection is minimal, so bring a rack with a range of cams and nuts. Expect to place pro on firm rock, and bring a sturdy rope for the single pitch. Entrance includes a soft scree approach demanding careful footing to avoid damaging wildflowers.
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