"Extend your adventure on Waterfall Wall with Prince Charming Extension, a focused trad pitch featuring finger crack moves and a shallow dihedral. Perfect for climbers ready to push past Princess Ella’s Magical Adventure with confident protection and solid rock quality."
Prince Charming Extension offers climbers a focused and solid trad experience just beyond the popular Princess Ella's Magical Adventure route on Waterfall Wall near Ouray, Colorado. This single-pitch climb rewards your efforts with precise finger crack climbing that demands attention and skill, while whispering with quiet beauty from its rocky cradle. The pitch begins by threading a short, delicate crack that tests finger strength and finesse before you reach a secure stance perched comfortably to the right. From here, the route leads you through a shallow, left-facing dihedral that feels like the rock is inviting you to move carefully along its contours. Anchored by two bolts placed with care, this extension offers peace of mind while preserving the purity of traditional protection.
The climb covers about 50 feet of terrain, making it approachable in length but packed with technical nuance. Expect a grade of 5.8 on the Yosemite Decimal System, with pockets of harder moves that keep the flow engaging without overwhelming. Finger-sized cams handle most of the protections here—bring several to adapt to the subtle variances in crack width. The bolts, positioned thoughtfully at opportunities along the pitch, supplement natural gear placements, making the route a balanced blend of security and self-reliance.
Situated in the rugged high country of southwestern Colorado, this climb enjoys crisp mountain air and crystalline light bouncing off jagged cliffs. Waterfall Wall’s rock is solid and textured, providing reliable holds and reassuring friction. The approach to the base is straightforward but requires attention to footing, as the terrain shifts from forested patches to rocky scree slopes. Allow about 20 minutes from the main parking area near Ouray to reach the trailhead, then an easy, well-marked path leads to the climb’s base.
This extension complements the more popular Princess Ella’s route, offering climbers eager for additional challenge a chance to extend their adventure. The route’s orientation sets it in sunlight for much of the day, though early mornings or late afternoons offer cooler conditions that make the rock more agreeable on warm days. Fall and spring present the ideal climbing seasons, with fewer crowds and crisp weather lending sharp focus to your moves.
For gear, a rack focusing on finger-sized cams is essential—think #0.3 to #0.5 camalots—as the cracks favor smaller protection. The bolted stances simplify placing gear under stress and provide excellent anchor points. Footwear with sticky rubber and a precise fit will reward you on the textured cracks and dihedral face, while chalk can help maintain grip on the often dry rock.
Descent involves a simple rappel from the two-bolt anchor, with the rope thrown carefully to avoid snagging on nearby ledges. Alternatively, for those comfortable with downclimbing, a walk-off scramble to the base is feasible but demands cautious movement on loose rock and scree.
In all, Prince Charming Extension blends intimate technical climbing with practical accessibility. It invites trad climbers to extend their day in Ouray’s Waterfall Wall, materially adding to the experience with subtle rock movement and confident protection. Whether you're following on from Princess Ella or seeking an isolated pitch, this route delivers a solid dose of adventure and skill refinement in Colorado’s raw mountain arena.
Watch for loose rock near the base and on the dihedral; always test handholds before committing. The rappel requires careful rope management to avoid snags on ledges below the anchor. Avoid climbing when wet, as moisture can reduce friction on the crack and surrounding faces.
Approach the base via a well-marked trail; allow about 20 minutes from Ouray parking.
Start climbs early in the day for cooler rock temperatures and less crowds.
Sticky rubber shoes with precise edging will maximize grip on narrow cracks.
Use chalk sparingly to maintain finger friction without drying out the rock excessively.
Bring a selection of finger-sized cams ranging from #0.3 to #0.5 Camalots to secure placements within the short crack and dihedral. The route includes three bolts placed on lead from stances, offering supplemental fixed gear for added security.
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