Dexter Creek Slabs Ice Climbing Guide - Colorado’s Early Season Crag

Ouray, Colorado
ice climbing
multi-pitch
early season
WI3
Ouray
Colorado
moderate ice
accessible approach
Length: 500 ft
Type: Ice
Stars
Pitches
multi-pitch
Protected Place
Ouray Ice Park
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Dexter Creek Slabs offers a solid introduction to multi-pitch ice climbing with nearly 500 feet of dependable moderate ice. Conveniently located near Ouray, this area shines in early to mid-winter and serves as a prime training ground for first leads in a stunning mountain setting."

Dexter Creek Slabs Ice Climbing Guide - Colorado’s Early Season Crag

Situated just off Highway 550 near Ouray, Colorado, Dexter Creek Slabs presents an inviting playground for ice climbers looking to sharpen their skills on moderate pitches that stretch almost 500 feet from base to summit. The climb is straightforward yet rewarding, featuring thick, reliable ice that holds well in early to mid-winter conditions—perfect timing for adventurers eager to get an early start before harsher weather sets in.

Access demands a short but purposeful approach: turning left onto County Road 14 before reaching Ouray, following this path several miles before a right fork, and parking at the end of the plowed road. From here, a clear trail climbs up the hillside to the slabs, which dominate the hillside skyline and invite climbers of varying experience levels. The approach is manageable, weaving over forested terrain that gradually opens up to crisp alpine air and panoramic views of the surrounding mountains.

The main draw here is the multi-pitch Dexter Creek Slab, graded WI3 and touted as a classic moderate ice climb. Its three and a half stars from the climbing community reflect dependable conditions and a great balance of challenge and accessibility. This route is ideal for climbers beginning their season or solidifying lead techniques, as the ice forms a consistent, fat sheet that is excellent for setting protection and gaining confidence in placing screws.

Visitors should be prepared for cold winter conditions but will appreciate that this slab often freezes sooner than many other local ice climbs. The terrain remains engaging but forgiving enough to keep the focus on technique and flow rather than brute force. Though there are only a few routes here, the overall ambiance is relaxed and perfect for those looking to hone their skills without long, complex approaches or overly technical climbing.

Beyond the climb itself, the surrounding landscape offers a quiet contrast to busier climbing hubs. Ouray remains the closest city, providing necessary amenities and a warm rest stop after a day on the ice. Weather conditions here typically align with a classic Colorado winter pattern—clear, cold days with occasional snow that refreshes the ice.

Approach conditions and trail accessibility can vary depending on snowfall, so checking the latest trail reports is advisable. The descent from the slab is straightforward, generally by downclimbing or rappelling, though climbers should remain cautious of ice stability and avoid lingering on steep, exposed sections after climbing.

This slab is primarily ice climbing with no mixed or rock routes documented, and the moderate WI3 grade means it’s approachable for those ready to step into multi-pitch territory but still building experience. The area doesn’t demand specialized rock protection gear but does require solid ice climbing equipment, including screws, crampons, and ice tools. Planning for changing weather and variable ice thickness is essential.

In short, Dexter Creek Slabs is a hidden gem for early-season ice climbers craving solid multi-pitch routes close to Ouray. Its approachable grades, reliable ice, and manageable approach make it a prime spot to sharpen skills and savor the crisp Colorado winter mountain atmosphere. When you’re ready to take the plunge into longer ice climbs without getting overwhelmed, this slab delivers a consistent, scenic adventure that sets the tone for an exciting winter climbing season.

Climber Safety

Be cautious of varying ice conditions—early season ice can form thick sheets but may also have fragile sections. Always test placements carefully and avoid lingering on exposed areas during warming sun. The approach trail can be snowy and icy, so use caution to prevent slips on the way in and out.

Area Details

TypeIce
Pitchesmulti-pitch
Length500 feet

Local Tips

Check the plowing status on County Road 14; parking depends on snow removal.

Bring full ice climbing gear—advanced rock gear isn’t necessary due to the ice-only nature of the slabs.

Plan your climb for early to mid-winter when the ice is typically thick and stable.

Watch weather forecasts carefully—early season freezes can fluctuate quickly, affecting ice quality.

Area Rating

Quality
Consensus:At WI3, Dexter Creek Slabs offers moderate ice that feels balanced and approachable without being overly technical or strenuous. The rating reflects an ice climb that is generally consistent and dependable early in winter, making it a favorable spot for those gaining confidence in multi-pitch ice. Compared to steeper, more advanced Ouray ice climbs, this slab has a reputation for more mellow terrain that lets climbers focus on technique and efficiency.

Gear Requirements

The area requires typical ice climbing gear—ice screws for protection, crampons, and technical ice tools. Since the routes are moderate WI3, solid basic ice protection skills are essential. No mixed or trad gear is needed here.

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Tags

ice climbing
multi-pitch
early season
WI3
Ouray
Colorado
moderate ice
accessible approach