"Prime Rib stands as a classic single-pitch trad climb in Turkey Rocks offering a crisp crack and dihedral sequence that tests gear placement and steady movement. Its accessible location and balanced technicality make it a rewarding climb for trad enthusiasts venturing into the South Platte area."
Prime Rib offers a solid introduction to traditional climbing in the rugged landscape of Turkey Rocks along South Platte, Colorado. This single-pitch route features a blend of crack and dihedral climbing that demands both finesse and tactical gear placement. Beginning with a slab climb just to the right of a dead tree leaning against the rock face, climbers can utilize the tree as a sling point for added protection. The route then leads you into a tight dihedral that stretches for about 50 feet, inviting a steady rhythm of climbing through the crack system.
As you reach the top of the dihedral, the climb veers left onto an open face where a #3 Camalot comes in handy for protection. Careful attention is needed here—the crux move often feels harder if you find yourself too high, so maintaining a conservative line is key. The final 40 feet to the belay ledge require confident crack climbing skills and careful footwork, as this section is runout with no protective gear placements.
Prime Rib sits in a quiet, less-traveled corner just left of the popular Captain Fist climb, offering a refreshing challenge with fewer crowds. The rock surface is generally solid, with occasional rough patches that add texture to the climb without compromising safety. The lack of rap anchors as of early 2000s means that descending requires a cautious walk off over the top and a scramble to the right. This exit route tends to hold snow longer than other parts of Turkey Rocks, so climbers should be prepared for slick conditions, especially in the shoulder seasons.
Turkey Rocks itself is a favored climbing area known for its access and diverse routes along the South Platte River corridor. Prime Rib’s straightforward rack requirements make it a practical choice for those building trad experience or looking to enjoy technical moves within a manageable length. The surrounding terrain provides a moderate approach through pine and scrub, setting the mood for an engaging climbing session. Midday sunlight often lights up the face, but the dihedral offers shaded relief during hotter months, making timing flexible throughout spring and fall.
Prepare with a standard trad rack, including cams up to size #3, to cover the full range of placements. Footwear with solid edging capability will help navigate the slab and face sections efficiently. Water and layered clothing are advised to manage the fluctuating mountain climate, and always check the descent scramble conditions ahead of time, particularly after recent snowfall or rain. Prime Rib rewards steady movement and good route-finding—a climb that feels approachable but keeps you engaged until the last move.
Without rappel anchors, exhaustion or poor footing on the scramble descent can pose hazards. Be prepared for slick snow patches lingering in the descent area and confirm stable footing before committing to moves on the runout section.
Use the leaning dead tree early on for a sling placement to increase safety on the slab.
Watch your positioning on the crux face moves; getting too high increases difficulty significantly.
Expect a runout section on the last 40 feet—move confidently and plan protection accordingly.
Descend by walking off over the top and carefully scrambling right; snow can linger in this exit.
Approach the route via Turkey Rocks trailhead; the walk-in is moderate with pine and scrub terrain.
Bring a standard trad rack including cams up to #3 Camalot to protect crack and dihedral sections effectively. The dead tree near the start can serve as a sling anchor.
Upload your photos of Prime Rib and earn up to 3000 $ADVCOIN tokens.