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One Rat Too Many: A Hands-On Trad Challenge in Clear Creek Canyon

Golden, Colorado United States
offwidth
trad crack
single pitch
Colorado climbing
loose rock
protection essential
Clear Creek Canyon
Length: 40 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
One Rat Too Many
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"One Rat Too Many climbs a raw offwidth crack on Clear Creek Canyon’s Prestige Worldwide Wall. This single pitch blends easy crack climbing with a physical offwidth finish that demands commitment and solid gear choices."

One Rat Too Many: A Hands-On Trad Challenge in Clear Creek Canyon

One Rat Too Many climbs a gripping crack system on Prestige Worldwide Wall, tucked into the rugged Clear Creek Canyon near Golden, Colorado. This single-pitch trad route offers a straightforward approach but delivers a surprisingly physical finish that demands respect and preparation. From the start, you ascend through a series of easy cracks, threading past three bushes that frame the narrowing chimney. As you push higher, the crack swells into an offwidth, where loose chockstones cling stubbornly—reminders that the route still feels raw and alive beneath your fingers. The offwidth demands strong technique and confidence; a #4 Camalot slots comfortably before the crux, but an older #5 Camalot would provide valuable security for the challenging double Gaston move at the top. Protection is sparse and placements require mindfulness—there’s no perfect anchor above, only a modest threaded sling below a precarious boulder, stressing the importance of careful gear planning and prudent judgment. When you reach the top, the descent options split: a leftward walk-off along a fourth-class ledge or a short traverse to the right, where a two-bolt anchor awaits for rappelling. Either way, the natural surroundings are alive with the sounds of Clear Creek’s flowing water and the whisper of wind through sparse trees, offering a brief but vivid adventure in Colorado’s classic crack terrain. This route won’t appeal to those seeking polished sport routes or straightforward protection, but for climbers craving a tangible connection with the rock and a modestly committing offwidth finish, it’s a solid challenge. Prepare to bring your larger cams, practice offwidth moves, and embrace a route that feels like a conversation with the canyon's rugged fault lines.

Climber Safety

Loose chockstones in the offwidth can shift under weight; place protection carefully and test all holds before weighting. There is no ideal fixed anchor at the top—set a sturdy sling around a large boulder with caution. The descent requires confident fourth-class scrambling or a safe rappel from a two-bolt anchor; assess your options before committing.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length40 feet

Local Tips

Bring a full set of cams including larger sizes (#4 and old #5 Camalots) for the offwidth section.

Be prepared for a somewhat loose offwidth with chockstones that don’t always settle—test each placement thoroughly.

Anchors are minimal and not ideal; consider threading a sling below the boulder or plan to rappel from the 2-bolt anchor via a short traverse.

Approach early in the day to avoid afternoon sun on the wall; the route’s aspect provides cooler shade in the morning.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8
Quality
Consensus:The 5.8 rating here feels slightly stiff due to the offwidth finish’s crux moves, which require solid technique and strength. The loose nature of some placements adds an additional mental challenge, making it feel more demanding than a typical 5.8. Compared to nearby 5.8 routes, One Rat Too Many leans into raw crack climbing, rewarding those comfortable with offwidth and less-than-perfect rock conditions.

Gear Requirements

Recommended gear includes smaller cams like Red Alien, #0.5, #0.75, up to #4 Camalots for the main crack sections. An older #5 Camalot is advised for the offwidth finish, providing essential protection for the demanding double Gaston move. Loose chockstones still remain in the crack, so confirm placements carefully and plan for sparse anchors.

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Tags

offwidth
trad crack
single pitch
Colorado climbing
loose rock
protection essential
Clear Creek Canyon