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Oklahoma Princess: A Crisp Trad and Sport Warm-Up on Sheeprock's North Face

South Platte, Colorado United States
trad gear recommended
bolt protected
north face
two pitch
moderate runouts
slab climbing
arete
Colorado climbing
Length: 200 ft
Type: Trad, Sport
Stars
Pitches
2
Location
Oklahoma Princess
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Oklahoma Princess is a clean, no-frills two-pitch climb on Sheeprock’s north face, blending trad and sport elements. It’s a perfect warm-up route featuring moderate moves, a strategic bolt layout, and just enough gear placements to keep safety in check."

Oklahoma Princess: A Crisp Trad and Sport Warm-Up on Sheeprock's North Face

Oklahoma Princess offers a straightforward yet engaging introduction to the Sheeprock climbing area, sitting just to the far right of the north-facing routes. This route unfolds along a distinct pillar-slab formation, its compact granite surface demanding steady footwork and measured moves. The climb begins at a noticeable gully adjacent to the back side of the Acid route, putting you about 100 feet right of the Knossos tiered base. Here, the air carries a quiet intensity as the rock’s texture invites firm grips and contemplative pauses.

The approach to Oklahoma Princess is accessible, but expect a light hike through open, rugged terrain before the granite comes into full view. Once at the base, the rock commands attention with clean lines and moderate angles, making it an ideal choice for climbers looking to ease into multi-pitch trad and sport experiences without overwhelming technical challenges.

Pitch one follows the left arete of the pillar, presenting steady 5.7 climbing that feels approachable but precise. The semi-hanging belay at the top of this pitch offers a welcome rest and a moment to scan the next moves. On pitch two, the line shifts a bit to the right, guiding you up the face with opportunities to place supplemental gear if the bolt spacing makes you cautious. This pitch maintains a rhythm that balances flow with mindful protection, ending on a generous ledge that invites you to pause and appreciate the surrounding ridges and high desert vistas.

Protection on Oklahoma Princess is mostly bolts, with enough potential placements to add gear and ease any fears of runouts. The bolts are spaced a little wider than on some nearby routes, so bringing a small rack of cams and nuts is recommended, especially if you prefer a fuller safety margin. The combination of trad and sport features offers a flexible experience—perfect for climbers developing trad confidence while enjoying sport convenience.

Whether you are warming up for more committing routes nearby or simply looking for a manageable two-pitch climb with solid movement, Oklahoma Princess delivers a balanced challenge. The rock’s firm texture and varied holds keep your attention, while the moderate grade ensures a rewarding outing without pushing the limits too hard. Descending requires a double-rope rappel, so come prepared with appropriate gear and make sure to double-check your anchors for a smooth exit.

Season-wise, early fall to late spring is ideal. The north-facing wall holds shade well, keeping the rock pleasantly cool during warmer months but making it less inviting in winter’s chill. Midday climbs can offer sun on the face, a welcome feature on brisk mornings. Be mindful of potential wind gusts that can spring up in the canyon, nudging you to dress in layers and secure loose items.

In sum, Oklahoma Princess is a solid pick for anyone scouting solid granite with a mixture of trad and sport climbing on Sheeprock’s accessible north face. Its approachable rating, combined with varied protection options and good stance quality, makes it a practical and enjoyable outing. With a sharp eye on gear and timing, this climb invites you into the quiet power of Colorado’s high desert rockscape.

Climber Safety

Bolt spacing on this route can create runouts that are intimidating at the grade, so climbers should supplement protection with trad gear where possible. Also, ensure proper anchor setup for the rappel descent, and watch for loose rock near the belay stations.

Route Details

TypeTrad, Sport
Pitches2
Length200 feet

Local Tips

Bring two ropes for a smooth double-rope rappel descent.

Start the climb mid-morning to catch sun on the north face and avoid cold shadows.

Supplement bolts with small to medium cams where possible to reduce runouts.

Wear sturdy climbing shoes with reliable edging for slab sections on pitch one.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8
Quality
Consensus:Rated at 5.8, Oklahoma Princess delivers moderate climbing with some longer stretches between bolts that raise the perceived effort. The grade feels soft but is punctuated by a few moves requiring thoughtful gear placement, especially on pitch two. Compared to nearby north face routes, it is a great option for those seeking solid moderate climbing with manageable exposure.

Gear Requirements

The route is bolted with runouts that may feel wide for the grade; it is advisable to bring a moderate trad rack to supplement protection, especially on moves transitioning from the arete to the face on pitch two.

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Tags

trad gear recommended
bolt protected
north face
two pitch
moderate runouts
slab climbing
arete
Colorado climbing