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Of Coarse Corner: A Classic Deadwood Wall Challenge

South Lake Tahoe, California United States
crack climbing
trad gear
roof crux
single pitch
granite
Lake Tahoe
hands and fingers
Length: 120 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Of Coarse Corner
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Of Coarse Corner is a focused 120-foot trad climb on Deadwood Wall, blending crack systems and a defining roof crux. This route offers a gritty, measured test of technique with reliable protection and stunning canyon views."

Of Coarse Corner: A Classic Deadwood Wall Challenge

Of Coarse Corner cuts a striking silhouette along the Deadwood Wall, inviting climbers to engage a rugged line that tests both technique and composure. The route begins beneath a sprawling tree, a natural landmark offering a quiet moment before the climb’s physical demands mount. From here, the approach veers right above loose, brittle blocks—choss clinging precariously as the wall shifts underfoot—requiring careful foot placement and a steady focus. Gaining the defining corner, two intersecting crack systems unfold upward, each with its own rhythm. Hands and fingers find confident holds along seams that demand precise jamming and controlled movement, a tactile conversation with the granite that feels both honest and exacting.

The climb’s momentum builds toward a roof that looms overhead like a final sentinel. Negotiating this feature means shifting left to engage a tight hand-to-finger crack, a sharp crux that tests endurance and flexibility. It’s here that subtle body positioning decides success—climbers must trust their gear placements while maintaining balance against the natural pull of the steep granite.

At around 120 feet, Of Coarse Corner consolidates its character into a single sustained pitch, favoring those comfortable with crack climbing and the demands of traditional protection. The route’s protection needs are practical but require savvy. Micro cams and nuts find homes in cracks that vary from narrow fingers to broader hands, while a larger #4 cam may provide critical security in wider sections. The anchors at the top, shared with Off Width Out You, offer a reassuring finish with solid placements for belay or rap anchors.

Located just minutes from Carson Pass Highway, this climb benefits from a remote feel despite its accessibility, providing sweeping views of Woodfords Canyon and the towering granite faces above Lake Tahoe. The approach trail is relatively short but segmented by loose boulders, so sturdy footwear and a measured pace are essential. Timing your ascent in the morning offers cooler temperatures and softer sunlight against the stone’s texture, reducing the risk of overwhelmed skin and sweaty hands.

Planning for hydration is vital—there’s no reliable water source near the base, and the route’s physicality will demand steady fluid intake. Climbers should also be prepared for the geological quality; while the rock is generally solid, the passage above the starting tree has some loose blocks, so vigilance is key to avoid dislodging debris that could threaten those below.

Of Coarse Corner delivers a concentrated dose of Deadwood Wall’s gritty charm: a climb that balances exposure with manageable risk, a classic crack line that rewards patience and technique. Whether you're setting out from Lake Tahoe or making a dedicated trip from the broader Sierra Nevada region, this route offers a rich experience that stands as a rewarding entry point to traditional climbing on this impressive stretch of granite.

Climber Safety

Watch for loose blocks on the initial traverse above the start. While the rock is mostly solid, this section demands careful foot placement to avoid knocking debris. Wearing a helmet and maintaining firm communication with your belayer will help manage the objective hazards. The anchors are secure but check gear before rappelling.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length120 feet

Local Tips

Approach with sturdy shoes; the trail features loose rocks and uneven terrain.

Start early to take advantage of cooler morning light and reduce heat exposure on granite.

Carry sufficient water; no sources are available near the base.

Be extra cautious above the start where loose blocks can dislodge; always wear a helmet.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9-
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9- rating on Of Coarse Corner presents a moderate challenge, with the roof crack crux adding a layer of technical complexity that elevates the pitch beyond a straightforward climb. The grade leans slightly soft given the steady crack jamming, but the crux requires power and finesse that can feel like a step up compared to nearby easier routes on Deadwood Wall.

Gear Requirements

Bring 1-2 pieces each of cams ranging from 0.4" to 3", a full set of nuts, micro cams, and a #4 cam for wider placements. The anchors at the top are shared with Off Width Out You, equipped for belay or rappel.

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Tags

crack climbing
trad gear
roof crux
single pitch
granite
Lake Tahoe
hands and fingers