Elephant's Graveyard: High Sierra Trad and Sport in the Carson Pass Wilds

Carson Pass, California
single pitch
granite
remote
high elevation
full sun morning
afternoon shade
wilderness
gear required
adventurous approach
Length: 60–80 feet ft
Type: Trad | Sport
Stars
Pitches
single pitch
Protected Place
Mokelumne Wilderness
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Elephant's Graveyard in California's Mokelumne Wilderness offers remote, sunlit granite walls for both trad and sport climbers. Expect one-pitch routes, peaceful backcountry conditions, and a real sense of adventure just south of Carson Pass."

Elephant's Graveyard: High Sierra Trad and Sport in the Carson Pass Wilds

At 8,500 feet in California’s Mokelumne Wilderness, Elephant's Graveyard offers a rugged escape for those seeking granite adventure far from the bustle. The climbing here is defined by its remote beauty and the variety of one-pitch granite routes that capture the spirit of exploration in the High Sierra.

Scattered between Elephant’s Back and Forestdale Road, the walls at Elephant’s Graveyard wake in sunlight and retreat to afternoon shade, promising comfortable temps and that unmistakable mountain clarity. From your vantage point at the base, forested slopes stretch away, and beyond them lie wide-open Sierra skies—a quiet reward for making the sometimes-rough approach.

This area hosts both traditional and sport lines, most no more than a single pitch, spread across craggy faces with options that cater to those who appreciate both bolt-protected movement and the art of gear placement. The granite here delivers features that beg for engagement: cracks, seams, and creative face moves are the order of the day. The climbing isn’t concentrated; instead, it invites exploration along several buttresses with names as evocative as the views: Gold Wall, Green Wall, and Elephant Toes. Each offers a unique mood, from sunny gold panels to lush shaded features bordering the Pacific Crest Trail (PCT).

Approaching Elephant’s Graveyard is part of the adventure. The standard method heads in from the Red Lake turn-off, requiring a hardy vehicle—or a willingness to walk the last mile along Forestdale Road. You’ll wind up at a shaded grove, a natural staging area tucked away at road’s end. From here, a use-trail leads west for just five to ten minutes, linking you to the PCT where you swing south or north depending on your objective for the day. For those ambitious or equipped with genuine 4WD, approaches from the Blue Lakes side are possible. Hikers can also reach the cliffs from Carson Pass, either by tracing the PCT or dropping in from Winnemucca Lake. The approach can feel wild yet is generally straightforward, rewarding you with the satisfaction of a quiet backcountry setting.

Classic climbs headline the experience and have built a quiet reputation among those who value quality over crowds. Notable lines include 'Dog Will Hunt' (5.10a), a thoughtful warm-up; and 'Unknown 10.b' (5.10b), which demands precise movement and commitment. The area’s best-known testpiece, 'Freaky-Styly' (5.10c), carries a hefty 4.5 star rating and delivers sustained, compelling movement—just the sort of challenge that keeps you coming back. At the harder end, 'Hurricane Garden' (5.11a), 'Talking The Seam' (5.11a), and 'Full Tilt Boogie' (5.11c) offer bold, modern climbing with solid protection and memorable sequences. Most climbs hover around the 60–80 foot mark, the perfect length to power through a crux and still enjoy a summit stance with a sweeping view.

Though grades are straightforward, the climbing here rewards careful attention to movement and gear. Trad leaders should bring a well-stocked rack, and sport climbers will find reliable bolts on designated lines. The nature of the terrain means exposure, especially in the afternoons when the sun slips behind the ridge; bring warm layers even in summer, and check for summer thunderstorms which can roll in fast at this elevation.

Elephant’s Graveyard’s remote vibe means solitude is likely but also that self-reliance is essential. Cell coverage is unreliable. The roads in, particularly past Forestdale Creek, can be rough—adventurous in dry weather and a gamble when wet, so plan for contingencies and drive appropriate vehicles.

Descent is generally straightforward—most routes rappel from bolted anchors, but always confirm anchor condition before launching off, and double-check your rope length. With a thoughtful approach, respectful of the wilderness and ever-changing Sierra moods, Elephant’s Graveyard delivers climbing that’s both rewarding and humbling—a place to chase granite dreams high above the everyday.

Climber Safety

The approach can be loose and isolated—come prepared to navigate rough roads and wilderness trails. The elevation and weather can change quickly, and remote setting means self-rescue may be necessary in case of emergency.

Area Details

TypeTrad | Sport
Pitchessingle pitch
Length60–80 feet feet

Local Tips

Approach roads can be rugged—drive with care and expect to walk an extra mile if not in a high-clearance vehicle.

Bring layers—afternoon shade and mountain weather can cool things off quickly, even on warm days.

Water is limited on site—fill up before leaving civilization.

Ticks and mosquitoes can be present in early summer—bug spray is recommended.

Area Rating

Quality
Consensus:Elephant’s Graveyard features grades from 5.10a to 5.11c, generally regarded as fair and in line with typical Sierra standards—neither soft nor sandbagged. Experienced climbers will find challenging but attainable movement, with the technical difficulty well-matched to the route descriptions.

Gear Requirements

Most routes are single pitch and require a standard rack for trad lines—gear to 3 inches recommended. Sport climbs are well-bolted, but always inspect anchors and bolts for the latest condition. A 60m rope is sufficient, but double-check route length before rappelling.

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Tags

single pitch
granite
remote
high elevation
full sun morning
afternoon shade
wilderness
gear required
adventurous approach