"Northcutt-Carter offers climbers a demanding alpine trad challenge on Hallett Peak’s north face. Originally a moderate classic, a late-90s rockfall reshaped the route’s opening, bringing a steep, technical edge to this historic line."
Carving a bold line up the granite expanse of Hallett Peak's north face, Northcutt-Carter challenges climbers with a blend of history and evolving character. Once heralded as a moderate 5.8 classic, the route’s first pitches were reshaped by a significant rockfall in the late 1990s. This event pushed the opening moves into a demanding 5.10 R zone, testing route-finding skills and patience. From the base, the approach wends through alpine forest and rocky talus, taking an hour and a half to reach the start beneath the third buttress—a perfect warm-up for the commitment ahead.
The climb unfolds over eight pitches totaling roughly 900 feet. The ground begins with a chimney corner system, a half-rope length that beckons you upward before veering left around a smooth face to a comfortable belay stance. As you continue, a chain of dihedrals shapes the route’s flow: dihedral to dihedral, moving left and right through fractured rock that demands cautious footwork and attentive protection placement. Pins and occasional fixed hardware pepper the route, but the presence of loose rock between the second and third buttresses reminds climbers to stay alert.
This route requires a clear head for navigation. Pitch three, in particular, tests your ability to read the rock, as you move laterally toward a smaller-than-expected right-facing dihedral. Missing this subtle turn risks wandering off route or encountering sparse gear. Subsequent pitches alternate between sustained crack climbing and negotiating bulges, with occasional fixed pins offering some security.
Gear up with a traditional rack featuring cams up to a #4 Friend, wires, and hexes to protect the wide variety of crack sizes encountered. Expect some tricky placements, especially in the fractured and loose sections; trust your judgment and back up anchors carefully to avoid surprises.
Once at the top, the descent shifts gear from climbing to scrambling, with a loose gully ascending to the right side of the third buttress. The descent route is not without challenge—loose scree and occasional uphill bits require steady footing and caution. Bonus: the high alpine environment rewards with sweeping views of the surrounding Rockies, high ridges rolling away under an ever-changing sky.
Timing your climb in mid-summer through early fall is ideal, avoiding lingering snow patches or early ice. Morning starts are preferred to beat afternoon thunderstorms common in the Rockies, especially at higher elevations. Adequate hydration and layering are essential, as temperatures can swing quickly.
Northcutt-Carter is more than a climb; it’s a journey through changing alpine rock, history, and evolving challenge. It draws climbers who appreciate moderate alpine trad lines with a serious edge and the satisfaction of precise route-finding. Whether you come seeking the legacy of a 50 Classic route or the thrill of testing your skills on a route reborn from the mountain’s shifting face, Northcutt-Carter delivers an authentic alpine climbing experience with practical demands for the informed adventurer.
Loose rock is common between pitches two and three; maintain a sharp eye on your footing and pro. The descent route follows a loose, occasionally uphill gully—take caution to avoid rockfall and unstable scree fields during your exit.
Start early to avoid afternoon storms common in the region during summer.
Carefully scout the transition between the 2nd and 3rd buttresses for loose rock.
Use an alternative start via the Kor-Van Tongeren chimney for a lower grade approach to pitch three.
Pack plenty of water and layers—temperature swings are frequent at elevation.
Protected by a traditional rack including wires, cams up to size #4 Friend, and some hexes. Expect variable placements with sections of loose rock requiring cautious gear placement.
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