Adventure Collective

Hallett Peak: Classic Alpine Climbing on a Stark Northeast Face

Estes Park, Colorado
alpine climbing
runout climbing
granite
multi-pitch
bird closures
scramble approach
traditional gear
steep terrain
classic routes
Length: 1000 ft
Type: Trad | Alpine
Stars
Pitches
multi-pitch
Protected Place
Rocky Mountain National Park
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Hallett Peak stands as a formidable alpine wall in Colorado’s RMNP, offering climbers a raw and challenging northeast face. This 1000-foot granite cliff is famous for its sustained moderate pitches, steep terrain, and routes that blend adventure with exposure, making it a magnet for those seeking alpine climbing with character and solitude."

Hallett Peak: Classic Alpine Climbing on a Stark Northeast Face

Rising sharply within the alpine expanse of Rocky Mountain National Park, Hallett Peak presents a climbing experience that balances austere beauty with carefully measured challenge. Its northeast-facing wall, stretching roughly 1000 feet, cuts a striking figure against the Colorado skyline, offering climbers a chance to engage with a classic, rugged alpine face that demands respect and preparation.

The wall divides neatly into three distinctive buttresses, each delivering a unique flavor of climbing. The first buttress is more broken and approachable, hosting the well-known Great Dihedral (5.7), where steady hands and calm nerves meet moderate cracks and airy exposure. This area usually welcomes those seeking less technical but deeply satisfying pitches.

Most climbers gravitate toward the second buttress, the heart of Hallett’s climbing scene. This sector features a diverse collection of routes spanning grades from 5.8 to 5.11, including the highly praised Culp-Bossier (5.8), often considered one of the best routes on the face. The Northcutt-Carter route has shifted over time, with rockfall in 1999 altering its first two pitches and bumping the difficulty to 5.10 R if taken through the scar—though a safer 5.8/9 variation is accessible nearby. This buttress mixes known paths with opportunities to challenge yourself on runout face climbing and steep terrain, all set against a backdrop of high alpine solitude and expansive views.

The third buttress sees far less traffic, distinguished by its remoteness and the chance to escape the crowds. After the 1999 rockfall, it has become an adventure haven for those who want to explore seldom-climbed lines and soak in the quiet majesty of the upper alpine environment.

Descending Hallett is as much a part of the journey as climbing it. For routes finishing on the first or second buttresses, the safest descent involves heading down the ridge to a bolted rappel anchor below a marked cairn. A 70-meter rope or two ropes cover the necessary rappels, and an intermediate anchor helps if you use a 60-meter rope. From the lower anchor, a well-marked 3rd/4th class scramble weaves back down amid trees and gullies to return you to the base. For those topping out on the third buttress, a steeper, looser gully offers a quicker descent, but caution is essential to avoid rockfall hazards and cliff bands.

Access starts at the Bear Lake parking lot. From there, the trail to Emerald Lake covers about 1.5 miles before a short scramble brings you up to the cliff base. The approach combines gentle hiking through subalpine forest with a modest scramble, setting the tone for the alpine character of the day.

Weather plays a significant role in the climbing season at Hallett, with closures running annually from mid-February through July 31st to protect nesting raptors. Climbers should consult the Rocky Mountain National Park guidelines on seasonal closures and respect these restrictions fully.

Climbing Hallett demands solid trad skills and comfort with runouts and finding protection on alpine granite. Beware that the rock can surprise—getting off-route invites runout climbing on often less-featured slabs. Rockfall is also a factor, especially near the scarred Northcutt-Carter area and the looser terrain on the third buttress. Classic climbs like Great Dihedral, Culp-Bossier, and Northcutt-Carter define the face’s offerings, rewarding those who prepare for the alpine environment with memorable climbing days.

Whether drawn by the allure of a steep alpine wall framed by jagged ridges or the chance to climb historic Colorado granite, Hallett Peak offers a varied, thoughtful climbing experience. From the brisk approach to the careful descent, this is a place where adventure and practicality fuse—perfect for climbers ready to embrace a classic alpine test.

Climber Safety

The area is prone to rockfall, especially near the scarred Northcutt-Carter route and the looser terrain on the third buttress descent. The steep, loose gully on the third buttress descent can be hazardous if other climbers are above. Seasonal closures protect nesting raptors — obey all trail and climbing restrictions to avoid fines and disturbance to wildlife.

Area Details

TypeTrad | Alpine
Pitchesmulti-pitch
Length1000 feet

Local Tips

Avoid off-trail travel from Feb 15 to end of July due to raptor nesting closures.

Use two ropes or a single 70m rope for rappels; a 60m can work with an intermediate anchor.

Take the left fork in the loose gully descent on the third buttress to prevent cliff encounters.

Start early to beat afternoon weather, as this northeast face can catch lingering cold winds.

Area Rating

Quality
Consensus:Hallett Peak’s routes generally fall between 5.7 and 5.11 in YDS grading. The climbing often feels stiffer than grade suggests due to exposure, runouts, and alpine conditions. Expect moderate grades with a solid mental challenge rather than purely physical difficulty. Similar to other classic alpine granite faces, protection can be sparse on some pitches, so experience with traditional placement and confidence on steep faces is crucial.

Gear Requirements

A standard alpine rack with a focus on traditional gear sized for cracks typical of granite faces. Double ropes or a single 70 meter rope is recommended for rappels. Bolted anchors are present for descents, but expect some runout sections requiring confident gear placement and route-finding skills.

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Tags

alpine climbing
runout climbing
granite
multi-pitch
bird closures
scramble approach
traditional gear
steep terrain
classic routes