"The North Spire’s North Ridge offers a compelling alpine climb with eight pitches of exposed, easy fifth-class terrain. It delivers a well-protected, airy ridge climb set against the remote beauty of the Nesakwatch Spires, ideal for those ready to step into alpine trad climbing with confidence."
Rising sharply from the raw wilderness of the Western Chilliwack Range, the North Spire’s North Ridge presents climbers with an enticing blend of moderate alpine scrambling and straightforward climbing. This route weaves eight pitches of mainly 3rd and 4th class rock, granting explorers a true taste of exposed mountain terrain without demanding technical difficulty. The ridge stretches out with a steady rhythm — rocky feet navigating sun-dappling ledges, cool mountain air whipping past as you ascend beneath open skies.
The approach carves through the Fraser Valley’s quiet forests, climbing steadily into a landscape where rugged granite formations challenge your foothold and concentration. Every step heightens your awareness of the spire’s vertical ambition, the rock underfoot solid yet occasionally sharp, demanding reliable shoes and sharp focus. It’s the kind of climb where the terrain feels alive — the ridge itself daring you onward while offering moments to pause and drink in sweeping views across British Columbia’s sprawling alpine contours.
This route suits adventurers looking to push beyond simple scrambles without venturing into technical climbing territory. The grades hover in the easy fifth-class range, allowing confident hikers to transition smoothly into roped climbing with moderate protection challenges. The exposure keeps the adrenaline pulsing, but the careful route-finding and handholds provide a tangible sense of control and safety.
Protection on the North Ridge is straightforward — a single rack supplemented by long draws accommodates the climb's natural stances and anchors without requiring excessive gear weight. The rock quality here encourages confident placement, with solid cracks and flakes supporting reliable gear. Long draws help manage rope drag, especially around corners and bulges.
Descending via the south ridge scramble completes the loop, a welcomed relief that still demands attention as loose rock and stepped granite require deliberate footwork. The route’s remoteness means climbers should plan for a full day out with extra water and ample time, navigating carefully to secure a safe retreat.
Climbing the North Spire is an invitation to experience the western Canadian alpine’s raw grandeur with a practical edge. This route balances the thrill of exposure with the pragmatic satisfaction of a well-protected, approachable climb. From footwear choices to packing your rack, this ascent becomes a lesson in alpine savvy — where every movement counts, and nature commands respect and engagement at every turn.
Despite moderate difficulties, the route demands respect for its exposure and the variable rock quality on some ledges. Loose rock can appear on the descent south ridge scramble — proceed cautiously to avoid dislodging debris or slips.
Start early to avoid afternoon weather shifts common in the Chilliwack alpine.
Wear sturdy approach shoes with good grip for varied scrambles on the south ridge descent.
Bring a moderate rack; minimal but precise gear works best on this route.
Check weather forecasts carefully — sudden changes can impact safety on exposed ridges.
Plan to carry a single rack complemented by long draws to tackle the route’s moderate protection needs efficiently. The rock provides solid placements, but long draws reduce rope drag across the varied terrain.
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