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North Of Disko: An Arctic Trad Alpine Challenge in NW Greenland

Upernavik, Greenland
trad climbing
alpine route
offwidth crack
chimney
skyhook traverse
Arctic
multi-pitch
remote
Greenland
Length: 1000 ft
Type: Trad, Alpine
Stars
Pitches
8
Location
North Of Disko
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"North Of Disko presents a bold alpine trad climb on Greenland's remote cliffs. Offering over 1,000 feet of crack systems, chimney sections, and technical traverses, it’s an adventurous test framed by Arctic wilderness and raw rock."

North Of Disko: An Arctic Trad Alpine Challenge in NW Greenland

Rising from the stark, raw landscape opposite the Impossible Wall, North Of Disko offers a demanding alpine trad climb that tests both your technical skill and mental grit against the uncompromising Arctic wilderness. Stretching 1,000 feet over eight pitches, this route weaves through jagged cracks, offwidth corners, and bold traverses, bringing climbers into direct contact with the rugged pulse of Greenland’s northern edge. The climb begins with a crack system set in an open book corner, where you’ll feel the frozen air shift as you ascend beneath a small, brooding overhang. Above, the rock forces you left, right, and back again—each movement requiring precision to maintain balance and manage protection on sharp edges and occasional loose blocks. The route’s character emerges fully around the halfway mark, where a daring traverse challenges your confidence and body position with minimal holds and the need for skyhooks. At 5.11+ R, this pitch demands not just power but precise footwork and a calm mind to navigate the risk and exposure.

Beyond this crux, the climb transitions to a chimney-like "Jenga block" section, reminding you that alpine climbing here means reading the rock and terrain carefully for potential hazards, like shifting blocks and crumbly ramps. The final pitches ease in technical difficulty but require sustained focus—high on the wall, the rock’s texture changes to smoother slabs and flake systems, giving way to grassy ledges that invite you to pause and soak in the vast Arctic expanse.

This is not a route for the fainthearted or ill-prepared. Conditions can shift quickly, and the remote location means self-sufficiency is crucial. Gear up with a comprehensive rack, including standard cams and nuts, but do not neglect hooks and specialized small cams for the tricky fifth pitch traverse. The approach demands sturdy boots for rocky terrain, and at these latitudes, timing your climb for stable weather windows is paramount. Hydration and weather gear can make the difference between a thrilling challenge and an unsafe ordeal.

Climbing North Of Disko connects you to an elemental environment where nature’s forces shape not only the route but your experience. The vast Arctic sky seems to stretch infinitely, while the sharp cliffs feel alive, daring you onward with crisp, biting breezes and the faint scent of cold stone and distant sea. If you yearn for a climb that combines technical alpine rock with wilderness intensity, this Greenlandic route answers the call—and rewards those prepared to meet it head-on.

Climber Safety

Loose blocks are a persistent hazard, particularly on ledges below pitches four and six. The remote setting requires self-reliance for gear failure or injury, and unpredictable Arctic weather means you should be ready to retreat swiftly if conditions deteriorate.

Route Details

TypeTrad, Alpine
Pitches8
Length1000 feet

Local Tips

Prepare for loose blocks especially on pitch 4 and chimney section of pitch 6—test holds gently before trusting.

Aim to climb during the Arctic summer months for maximum daylight and more stable weather.

Carry adequate clothing layers to manage cold winds and sudden temperature shifts on the wall.

Practice placing protection on offwidth cracks and be proficient with skyhooks for the bold traverse on pitch 5.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.11+ R
Quality
Consensus:The 5.11+ R rating reflects a stiff challenge with a serious crux at pitch five’s traverse—few holds and tricky protection push the grade into the upper range of difficulty. The sustained nature of technical cracks before and after makes this climb feel harder than the number alone implies. Compared to nearby Greenlandic routes, it demands solid crack climbing and bold route-finding skills.

Gear Requirements

A standard rack covers most protection needs, but be sure to include hooks and smaller cams specifically for the tricky fifth pitch traverse. Bring gear for offwidth cracks and chimney sections as well.

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Tags

trad climbing
alpine route
offwidth crack
chimney
skyhook traverse
Arctic
multi-pitch
remote
Greenland