"Cholesterol Wall stands as the steepest and most densely iced climb on Ten Mile Pond in Gros Morne National Park. This northern ice climbing hotspot offers adventurous ascents on classic routes such as Apocalypse Now and demands strategic planning for access, conditions, and safety."
Cholesterol Wall rises as the steepest icy spine on Ten Mile Pond in Newfoundland and Labrador, a true test of skill and grit for winter climbers. This imposing wall commands attention with its dense collection of ice routes that cling to the rugged face, creating a playground for ice enthusiasts seeking commitment and variety in a wild northern fjord setting. The climb rewards adventurers not only with technical challenges but also with the raw beauty of Gros Morne National Park’s winter landscapes.
Access to Cholesterol Wall requires a bit of planning and respect for local regulations. The wall lies southeast of Rocky Harbour, and the approach begins near the park Visitor’s Center where a road leads to a parking zone north of the center. A crossing of an inner pond opens the gateway to Ten Mile Pond itself and the climbing zone beyond. Given the terrain and protected status of Gros Morne, first-timers are encouraged to hire a snowmobile ride operated by local guides, as private snowmobiles are forbidden inside the park boundaries to preserve its wilderness character. Climbers must also secure a park permit to enter Gros Morne, emphasizing the importance of stewardship and adherence to conservation rules.
The elevation of Cholesterol Wall stands at about 462 feet, offering a sustained vertical ice experience that can challenge even experienced climbers. The wall’s classic routes like Apocalypse Now (WI7), Apocalypse Now Direct, and The Lion, the Witch, and the Wardrobe (WI7) showcase some of the strongest mixed ice grades in the region, attracting climbers with ambitions for heady technical ice ascents. These routes hold a solid reputation, noted for their steepness and firmness, demanding precise tool and crampon placements. While technical, the climbs reflect a consistent grade indicative of strong, solid ice conditions when the season is right.
The setting of Cholesterol Wall is rugged and remote, embedded deep within Gros Morne National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage site recognized for its untouched natural beauty and dramatic fjord landscapes. The park’s wilderness wilderness grants climbers sweeping views across snow-covered forests, frozen ponds, and distant mountain silhouettes. This backdrop not only immerses visitors in nature’s silence but also rewards patience with moments of sublime solitude between pitches.
Seasonality is critical for timing climbs here. The prime climbing window falls in the coldest periods spanning mid-winter into early spring when the ice solidifies in thickness and quality. Weather can be brisk, with averages fluctuating across winter months, so preparation for layered clothing and reliable cold-weather gear is essential. Daylight hours are shorter at these latitudes, pressing climbers to plan efficient ascents and descents. The wall’s orientation exposes it to morning light but shifts into shade by afternoon, a factor to consider when scheduling climbs for optimal ice conditions and thermal comfort.
Approaching the wall means gaining a keen sense of the land — crossing frozen ponds and navigating backcountry routes careful not to disturb the park’s fragile ecosystem. Upon finishing the climb, the descent involves cautious downclimbing or retracing via rappel routes. Due to the slippery winter terrain, it’s advised to double-check anchored gear and stay alert for icy patches on ledges and exit trails.
For gear, climbers should be equipped with standard ice climbing protection: ice screws, technical ice tools, and crampons. The ice routes here do not generally require rock protection, as the focus lies on pure ice climbing. Bringing backup gear for potential aid or mixed sections is prudent. Local guides can provide insight into route conditions and best practices, especially for visitors unfamiliar with Newfoundland’s ice climbing challenges.
In summary, Cholesterol Wall is a demanding, exhilarating destination for ice climbers looking to push limits while soaking in one of Canada’s most striking winter environments. The combination of steep, reliable ice and the wild, peaceful setting of Gros Morne NP ensures that every ascent is as rewarding mentally as it is physically. Whether tackling classic lines like Apocalypse Now or simply savoring the grandeur of frozen cliffs, climbers will leave with a sense of achievement and a deeper connection to this extraordinary corner of the world.
Approaches involve crossing frozen ponds and snow-covered terrain that can be unpredictable; always verify ice thickness and pack avalanche safety equipment if conditions warrant. The steepness and ice quality require careful protection placements and cautious downclimbing. Short daylight and exposure to cold demand thorough cold-weather gear and efficient route timing.
Hire a local snowmobile guide to access the area – private snowmobiles are prohibited inside Gros Morne Park.
Obtain a valid park permit before your trip; regulations are strictly enforced.
Plan climbs during mid-winter to early spring when ice quality is at its peak.
Prepare for a multi-stage approach involving crossing frozen ponds and variable terrain.
Climbers should be prepared with ice screws and technical ice tools suitable for WI7 terrain. The routes focus on pure ice protection rather than rock gear. Employ layered clothing for cold temperatures and bring extra gear for mixed pitches as needed.
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