Overview
"The Big Choss offers climbers a sprawling traditional climbing experience on tiered tiers of rugged rock behind Wild Cove’s waste facility. Adventure seekers will find solid trad lines like Hangover Anxiety alongside challenging choss sections that require careful gear placement and routefinding."
Big Choss (Dump), The - Adventurous Trad Climbing in Newfoundland
At the edge of Newfoundland’s rugged W Coast, behind the Wild Cove waste management site, stands The Big Choss - a vast, rugged buttress offering a raw and hands-on climbing adventure. This sprawling formation rises in tiered layers to roughly 100 meters, inviting climbers who crave traditional, ground-up routes that demand both mental grit and solid climbing technique. The rock here is a wild mix – some sections surprisingly solid and protective, others characteristically chossy in a way that calls for caution and respect. Climbers familiar with the Canadian Rockies’ bold style will appreciate the challenge these routes present – it’s not about polished sport routes but a true adventure experience where gear placement, routefinding, and managing variable rock quality are part of the game.
Among the highlights, 'Shit Hawk' (5.10) and 'Hangover Anxiety' (5.9) stand out as classic climbs that maintain cleaner rock and solid protection with traditional gear. Both deliver satisfying moves and offer a taste of the area’s adventurous character without veering into outright risk. This is not a place for casual top-roping or beginners hoping for forgiving terrain – it’s an environment where every move counts and protective placements are earned with patience and care.
Access is straightforward but requires attentiveness. Begin with the established approach to The Dumpwall and then follow the base trail to the climber’s right. The massive buttress is unmistakable, marked by distinctive features that help in orienting yourself and locating climbs. Expect a modest elevation gain as the crag rises to about 669 feet, providing ample climbing height without the commitment of a long alpine approach.
Weather in this part of Newfoundland can be unpredictable, so climbers should prepare for moisture and cool conditions typical of coastal environments. Spring through early fall tends to offer the best climbing window, though paying close attention to forecasts and having layered clothing will help ensure comfort on the rock.
Gear up with a solid rack geared for traditional protection - slings, cams, and nuts will be necessary. The protection can range from dependable to marginal, so climbers must be confident placing small gear and occasionally rely on bolted stances or hooks. This blend of protection styles adds to the adventure feel, challenging you to trust both your skill and your equipment.
Descending is a point to plan carefully. While the crag is accessible, the terrain beneath can be tricky and requires caution to avoid loose rock or unstable footing. Climbers generally retrace their approach trail to return to the trailhead.
Whether you're out here for the storied routes like Hangover Anxiety or the less frequented but equally compelling lines, The Big Choss rewards those prepared to engage with the rock as a raw and unpredictable partner. It’s a rugged playground for traditional climbers seeking a climb where the thrill comes as much from the environment and climbing style as from the physical challenge itself. Expect the unexpected, come ready for hands-on trad climbing, and immerse yourself in one of Newfoundland’s most unique climbing experiences.
Climber Safety
Rock quality can vary from secure to loose, so climbers must remain vigilant with protection placements and cautious in movement. The terrain below the climbs includes loose debris, necessitating careful footing during approach and descent.
Area Details
Local Tips
Approach via the trail past The Dumpwall, then head right at the base to reach The Big Choss.
Bring a well-rounded rack focusing on smaller cams and nuts for marginal protection.
Prepare for variable rock quality - test placements and move cautiously.
Best climbing season runs from late spring through early fall; check weather closely due to the coastal climate.
Area Rating
Gear Requirements
Traditional gear is essential here. Routes are climbed ground-up with protection placed from stances or often on hooks; small and marginal pro is a common feature. Bolts exist but protection relies heavily on solid trad placements.
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