North Nesakwatch Spire offers a formidable journey that captures the raw spirit of alpine climbing in British Columbia’s Western Chilliwack Range. This 3000-foot ascent blends rugged snowfields with steep, technical rock pitches, demanding both skill and boldness. Starting from Centre Creek, your approach crosses the rushing waters before climbing a snow gully reminiscent of Rexford’s north face. The terrain pushes you right toward the North Nesakwatch Spires’ northeast buttress — a craggy ridge defined by a massive cleft that guides your way. Ascend through snow into this chasm, maneuvering below an imposing free-standing chockstone that marks a key transition. From there, you downclimb a pitch below the notch’s northern face, entering a patchwork of steep rock and brush.

This section is the core challenge, a blend of inobvious moves up to 5.9, mostly around 5.7, over five pitches that test route-finding and steady footwork on fragile rock. Stick climbers will need to be ready for brushy travel and occasional trickery as the route weaves right of the notch to the rib crest. The final 7-8 pitches follow a more straightforward line capped at 5.6, ascending ledgy terrain that rewards endurance with sweeping alpine views.

Though first established in the 1980s, North Nesakwatch’s northeast buttress remains rarely repeated, its demands compounded by the variable snow conditions that dictate your timing and success. Gear up with protection extending to 3 inches, crampons, and ice tools for the mixed snow and rock sections, with few fixed pitons to rely on. This climb requires careful preparation: the approach requires route-finding skills through thick brush and snow, and once on route, expect a complex alpine dance between snowfields and steep rock. Timing is crucial to avoid unstable snow conditions in the notch and on the gully, which affects not just safety but the ease of climbing.

An adventure for climbers comfortable with the unknown and eager to experience an unpolished but rewarding alpine route, North Nesakwatch tests both body and mind. The interplay of crisp mountain air, jagged stone, and uncertain snowfields creates a dynamic, engaging challenge for seasoned alpinists ready to step into the wild. Prepare well, move carefully, and let the pulse of the mountain guide your ascent.