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New Traditionalists: A Cornerstone of Owens River Gorge Sport Climbing

Bishop, California United States
sport climbing
corner
dihedral
technical moves
Owens River Gorge
single pitch
must try
moderate exposure
Length: 115 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
New Traditionalists
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"New Traditionalists offers a compelling blend of technical climbing and rhythmic movement on a varied corner at Owens River Gorge. With well-placed bolts and multiple crux options, this single pitch challenges climbers to find their own path to the top."

New Traditionalists: A Cornerstone of Owens River Gorge Sport Climbing

Set against the rugged backdrop of the Owens River Gorge, New Traditionalists offers climbers a distinctive blend of technical challenge and rewarding movement. This single-pitch sport climb stretches 115 feet along a varied corner feature that demands precision, balance, and control. The route begins with a deceptively tricky start—an acute test of technique that quickly opens into a spacious dihedral where stemming and methodical footwork become your allies. Each move feels deliberate, as if the rock itself invites you to dance its cracks and edges, punctuated by well-placed bolts that ease gear worries and allow you to focus on the flow of the climb.

As you gain height, the tension rises with a couple of challenging sections demanding steady nerves and confident positioning. What makes New Traditionalists stand apart is the playground of options presented at the final crux: three distinct sequences observed on different ascents prove there’s more than one way to solve this puzzle, inviting climbers to explore their personal style amid the same rigorous demands. The rock texture is solid with sharp edges and solid holds, yet you remain vigilant through each move to avoid slipping on smoothed surfaces.

The surroundings amplify the adventure; the Gorge’s towering walls catch the afternoon light just right, casting shadows that add depth to the rock’s contours. The air hums with the subtle whisper of the river below, urging climbers to push higher, holding both the challenge and beauty of the Owens River in a single ascent. The approach is straightforward, with access via a short trail from the base road, making it a prime choice for climbers looking to maximize climbing time without sacrificing quality.

Gear-wise, bring a standard sport rack and a strong mindset — 14 bolts ensure security but demand respect for clip sequence, especially through trickier sections where maintaining body tension is critical. Anchors with mussy hooks crown the top, providing reliable belay options. The route’s moderate exposure and solid protection make it accessible for climbers ranging from confident intermediates to strong sports climbers eager to test themselves on well-earned moves.

Timing your climb for mid-morning or late afternoon offers the best light and temperature conditions, with the wall’s orientation giving relief from direct sun during summer heat. Climbers should prepare for the route’s technical demands with focused warm-ups, solid footwear that supports edging, and hydration to stay sharp and energized.

In short, New Traditionalists captures the essence of Owens River Gorge sport climbing: an engaging, skillful ascent through compelling features, balanced by manageable approach and protection. Whether you’re chasing a personal best or savoring the rock’s personality, this route delivers a memorable climbing experience with clear beta and exciting movement.

Climber Safety

Despite solid bolts, the initial tricky start requires careful foot placement to avoid slipping on polished rock. Be mindful of clip sequence through technical sections to maintain balance and minimize swing risk. The mussy hook anchors at the top are secure but double-check before rappelling.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches1
Length115 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid the heat on the wall during summer afternoons.

Use shoes with excellent edging support for the subtle footholds.

Watch the clip sequence to avoid unnecessary swings on the trickier sections.

Bring plenty of water and warm-up thoroughly to tackle the technical moves confidently.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10a
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.10a, New Traditionalists sits comfortably in the moderate range but demands technique and composure. The grade feels fair, with the crux sections requiring precise footwork and good body tension—it's neither soft nor brutally stiff. Climbers familiar with neighboring routes in Owens River Gorge will find it a solid test with varied movement and a crux that invites multiple solutions.

Gear Requirements

This route is secured by 14 well-placed bolts leading to mussy hook anchors at the top. Expect a need for quick, precise clipping through technical sections and strong body positioning to maintain balance.

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Tags

sport climbing
corner
dihedral
technical moves
Owens River Gorge
single pitch
must try
moderate exposure