Moonlight Madness on Shuteye Ridge invites climbers into an invigorating day of steady, well-bolted sport climbing set against the rugged backdrop of California’s Southern Sierra. This route stretches over approximately 900 feet across five pitches, threading up a slab marked by a distinctive split roof and a solitary tree perched near the line’s start. The trail to the climb veers right on approach, guiding you to a sharp black streak on the rock—a clear visual cue for where the climb begins. While the initial bolt hangs somewhat high, small cams to protect the moves leading up to it offer climbers added confidence and security. Across all pitches, the difficulty steadies comfortably under 5.8, with plentiful bolts punctuating the line, making it accessible without sacrificing engagement.

The slab’s texture changes with sunlight throughout the day, revealing pockets and edges that test balance more than brute strength. The steady rhythm of clipping bolts and moving across solid rock feels like a conversation with the mountain—no surprises, just clean, consistent climbing. The route’s rating of 5.9- hints at a subtle challenge, but for most climbers with experience in sport climbing at this level, the grade is approachable. The generous bolt spacing and optional small cams ensure protection feels secure, especially important early on where reaching the first bolt requires finesse.

Shuteye Ridge itself holds quiet grandeur, positioned to offer sweeping views of dense forested ridges below and peaks stretching along the horizon. The sun filters through the trees during approach, carrying the scent of pine and dry earth, while the rock beneath your feet is firm, reliable, and patiently waiting to be climbed. After topping out, the standard descent calls for rappelling via the neighboring Afternoon Nap route, which requires two ropes—essential knowledge to carry in your trip planning.

Pragmatically, climbers should prepare for the moderate length by bringing at least a dozen quick draws and a couple of knob slings to handle the final pitch’s unique features. A few cams up to 0.5 inches are optional for added protection early on but aren’t strictly necessary. Footwear with solid edging is recommended given the slab nature of the route, and daytime climbing is favored when the aspect warms the rock without baking it—late morning through afternoon offers the most comfortable conditions. Hydration is straightforward, but given the altitude and length, plan accordingly.

Moonlight Madness stands as a reliable choice for sport climbers seeking an extended outing with a clear line, solid protection, and an environment that rewards focused effort and steady movement. Whether you’re progressing toward multi-pitch proficiency or simply eager to experience the Southern Sierra’s climbing character, this route delivers both adventure and practical challenge in equal measure.