Rising sharply to 12,200 feet, Michael Minaret stands as a formidable spire just west of the famous Clyde Minaret, demanding respect and careful planning from those who seek it. Unlike its more trafficked neighbor, Michael Minaret offers an intimate experience marked by vast solitude and striking alpine exposure. Its sheer presence dominates the skyline when viewed from Minaret Vista, with an angular summit that is as striking as it is challenging to reach.

This climbing destination carries a rich and somber history. The first ascent in 1923 was a remarkable feat for its era, capturing the spirit of early Sierra mountaineering. Yet the mountain’s story also holds tragedy: in 1933, climber Walter Starr lost his life here during a solo attempt, his body remaining on the peak ever since—a stark reminder of the mountain’s seriousness and the respect it demands. The events surrounding Starr's final days are chronicled in "Missing in the Minarets" and further detailed through survivor accounts, underlining Michael's place in mountaineering lore.

Approaching Michael Minaret tests a climber’s endurance and navigation skills. The west side routes—Starr's Chute, Eichorn's Chute, and Michael’s Chute—require a long trek: approximate 9-plus miles one way via the Shadow Creek Trail to Ediza Lake, then off-trail travel over Ritter Pass, and a southern traverse along the ridge flank. This route calls for backcountry savvy and likely an overnight stay.

For those targeting the East Face and its classic lines—Amphitheater Chute, South Face, and The Crescent—the Minaret Trail to Cecile Lake serves as a more established approach. From there, cross-country travel over South Gap leads to Amphitheater Lake, approximately 8.5 miles total. Given the alpine terrain, crampons and an ice axe are crucial even in the prime climbing season.

Despite the distances and challenges of the approach, the reward is an array of memorable climbs characterized by moderate technical grades with interesting mixed pitches. The classic lines on Michael Minaret, such as the Starr, Eichorn, Michael, and Amphitheater Chutes, offer varied climbing rated around 5.6 and earning solid reputations from climbers who seek that balance of adventure and manageable difficulty. These routes provide alpine climbing that’s both thrilling and achievable for those with proficient skills.

With its high elevation and exposed spire summit, climbers should be prepared for rapidly shifting weather and variable rock conditions. The mountain requires a full alpine kit, including protection for icy sections and careful route-finding during descent. Timing is critical—summer months typically offer the best weather window, while the climbing season may be limited due to snow and cold.

In all, Michael Minaret is not a destination for the casual day tripper; it demands both respect and preparation. But for climbers ready to commit, it offers a genuine Sierra adventure far from the busiest routes—where every step brings you closer to a peak that still holds its stories tight and its wilderness wild.