HomeClimbingMmmm... Crackahol

Mmmm Crackahol: Yosemite’s Commanding Arete Crack

Tuolumne Meadows, California United States
crack climbing
arete
trad
single-pitch
Yosemite
technical start
overhang
finger crack
Length: 80 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Mmmm... Crackahol
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"A bold crack route on the left arete of Yosemite’s North Wall, Mmmm Crackahol offers a single-pitch trad experience that balances overhanging power with technical finesse. Perfect for climbers ready to test their crack skills on iconic granite."

Mmmm Crackahol: Yosemite’s Commanding Arete Crack

Mmmm Crackahol presents a standout challenge for trad climbers eager to tackle a dynamic crack system etched along the left arete of Yosemite’s North Wall at Mariuolumne Dome. This route pulses with tactile variety, opening with a demanding 5.10a left-start that tests finger strength and commitment on overhanging hands. For those preferring a less strenuous introduction, the right start offers a more technical, though slightly easier 5.9 line. Both options lead into an 80-foot single pitch that leans on precise jamming and fluid movement more than brute force.

The climb’s positioning on the North Wall means that mornings bring crisp, refreshing air through pine-scented surroundings while the rock gradually warms as the sun journeys higher. The arete itself provides an elevated sense of exposure without unnecessary intimidation; it’s a route that rewards attention to detail and efficient gear placements. With protection extending to 3 inches, cruisers and seasoned crack climbers alike will find moments requiring careful gear selection to maintain confidence through the steeper lobes.

Locating the climb requires some focus, given its position in the quieter stretches of Mariuolumne Dome near Tuolumne Meadows, within the iconic bounds of Yosemite National Park. The approach traces forested trails that resist heavy traffic, leading to a wall whose stark granite draws the eye with an inviting presence. After the work of the climb, descending is straightforward with rappelling off fixed rings—no complicated route-finding or scrambles needed, allowing climbers to unwind safely and efficiently.

Practical preparation for Mmmm Crackahol begins with solid finger and hand crack technique to navigate the overhanging start comfortably. Climbing shoes with stiff edging and a set of cams extending to large sizes will make the climb more manageable, especially in securing placements on potentially varied crack widths. Given the route’s moderate length and single-pitch profile, timing your attempt in the cooler morning hours can maximize comfort while minimizing slickness from afternoon moisture or sweat.

Whether you’re edging into harder Yosemite cracks or seeking an engaging route that balances technical climbing with rewarding exposure, Mmmm Crackahol stands out as an accessible yet invigorating pitch. It challenges you to read the rock carefully, place gear with intention, and move fluidly through a granite line that’s as tactical as it is physically demanding.

Climber Safety

Be mindful on the overhanging moves where protection can be less straightforward; ensure placements are solid before committing. The granite is clean but can be slippery if wet from morning dew or recent rain, so plan ascents accordingly. Rappel rings are reliable but always double-check gear before descending.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length80 feet

Local Tips

Start early to enjoy cooler morning temperatures and optimal rock friction.

Wear stiff climbing shoes to aid edging and secure foot jams.

Double-check cam placements on the overhanging section for confidence.

Rappel from fixed rings to avoid gear retrieval complications or downclimb hazards.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10a
Quality
Consensus:The 5.10a grading captures the physical punch of the left start’s overhanging hand crack, which challenges climbers with a pumpy, strenuous crux. The right start, rated 5.9, feels softer in comparison but demands finesse and momentum to maintain fluid movement. This route fits comfortably among Yosemite’s moderate crack climbs, likely feeling harder if finger strength or overhang technique is a relative weakness.

Gear Requirements

Bring a full rack of cams sized up to 3 inches to protect the varied crack widths. The left-start's overhanging hand cracks demand solid finger strength and precise placements; carry a selection of smaller to mid-size cams for technical moves. Fixed rings for rappelling are available at the top.

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Tags

crack climbing
arete
trad
single-pitch
Yosemite
technical start
overhang
finger crack