Rising to 13,053 feet, Mount Dana stakes its claim as Yosemite’s second tallest peak, standing watch over the eastern gateway to the park. This granite giant offers climbers a crisp, alpine experience that balances accessible adventure with technical challenges — making it a must-visit for those seeking to test their skills above the tree line. Starting your journey from Tioga Pass, the approach is as practical as it is scenic. A class 1-2 walk-up route ascends gently from the Tioga Lake area, allowing climbers to acclimate while soaking in panoramic views of the glacier-carved landscape. This trail winds through sparse vegetation and rocky ground, rewarding hikers with clear sightlines across Glacier Canyon and the Dana Plateau.

For those hungry for steeper terrain, the Dana Couloir beckons with its classic alpine climb. Known for its straightforward yet committing pitch, this route has earned a 3.5-star rating for good reason. While the couloir requires solid snow or mixed conditions depending on the season, it demands focus and respect — making it a worthy pursuit for climbers comfortable with alpine exposure and variable surfaces. Beyond the couloir, other climbs scattered along the Dana Plateau offer opportunities for exploration and route-finding, although their technical details and rock quality vary, and climbers should be prepared for rugged conditions.

Access to Mount Dana is convenient yet remote enough to feel wild. From Lee Vining, drive west on Highway 120 - Tioga Pass Road - toward the northern entrance of Yosemite National Park. Approximately 11 to 12 miles along this alpine highway, you’ll reach either Tioga Lake or the Tioga Pass trailhead, your gateway to the mountain. This road grants a quick transition from highway to high mountain terrain, with plenty of spots to gear up and absorb the crisp mountain air.

The weather here is typical of high Sierra peaks: sunny days can turn chilly as the wind sweeps across the barren ridgelines, and afternoon thunderstorms are a summer afternoon staple. The prime climbing season runs roughly from late spring through early fall, when the snow recedes from the couloir and the temperatures become manageable. Be mindful that early season ascents will require alpine gear and knowledge of snow travel.

While the routes on Mount Dana are relatively sparse compared to Yosemite Valley’s granite corridors, the mountain’s sheer elevation and exposure set it apart. Climbers coming here should view Dana as a high mountain endeavor—where altitude and weather add an edge to every step. The Dana Couloir's solid 3.5-star reputation reflects its status as a classic, while the other climbs spread across Glacier Canyon promise solitude and discovery.

In preparation, climbers should bring layered clothing, bear-proof food storage, and a well-planned approach strategy, as the terrain and exposure leave little room for error. Given the alpine conditions, reliable boots, helmet, and seasonal climbing gear are essential. The rock is rocky and fractured in places—careful route selection and attention to protection quality will safeguard your ascent.

After the climb, descending is typically done by retracing your approach path back to the Tioga Pass trailhead. There are no established rappel stations for many routes, so safe downclimbing skills and route familiarity are key. Water sources are limited—carry enough to stay hydrated throughout your climb and hike.

Mount Dana represents a compelling high Sierra adventure that blends straightforward alpine hiking with the challenge of steep, technical ice or snow climbing in the Dana Couloir. Whether you’re ambling up the well-trodden walk-up or steadying yourself on a sharp pitch of steep snow, this peak offers majestic views, a rewarding wilderness atmosphere, and a glimpse into Yosemite’s untamed eastern flank.