"The Dana Plateau offers climbers a formidable high Sierra granite experience on the prominent Third Pillar of Dana, just outside Yosemite’s eastern boundary. Featuring classic routes like the Regular Route and the alpine Dana Couloir ice climb, it’s a must-visit for adventurers seeking stunning granite and remote alpine access."
Rising on the north-eastern flank of the Dana massif, the Dana Plateau sits roughly 500 feet below the summit at an elevation of 12,466 feet—offering climbers a striking high Sierra granite experience that rewards both skill and stamina. This remote granite prow, known as the Third Pillar of Dana, is visible from the Tioga Pass road, its clean lines slicing into the sky. Most climbers access it from the west side, just outside the boundaries of Yosemite National Park, making it a perfect addition to any Sierra-focused itinerary.
The Dana Plateau’s signature climb, the Regular Route on the Third Pillar, commands a well-earned reputation as a classic summer objective. With a rating of 5.10a, this route draws attentive parties on weekends who come to challenge themselves against granite that is both solid and beautifully featured. While the Regular Route is by far the busiest line, other routes on the pillar remain quieter, offering solitude for those who seek it.
Apart from rock climbing, the Dana Couloir is an exceptional low-angle ice climb in the same area that shares the third pillar’s access. This unique option broadens the appeal of the plateau — combining alpine rock with icy terrain for adventurers who want variety in their goals.
Approaching the plateau begins simply but requires preparation for altitude and terrain. The journey starts at Tioga Lake parking lot, perched around 9,500 feet near the eastern entrance of Yosemite along Highway 120. From here, a well-marked trail descends down to Tioga Lake and then sweeps around its eastern shore. Beyond Glacier Creek you leave the lake, following the creek’s canyon eastward along a climber’s trail that gradually ascends until the forest thins. To reach the plateau, it’s crucial to veer left at this point, climbing across a wide boulder field guided by cairns until the ground levels out onto the plateau itself.
This trek covers about 3,000 feet of elevation gain and can take between one to three hours depending on fitness and pack weight. Given the alpine environment and variable weather patterns typical of the Sierra, timing your climb during the stable summer months ensures safer, more comfortable conditions and more predictable climbing days.
After the climb, a surprising local tip is to stop for dinner at the Mobil station just where Tioga Pass Road meets Highway 395. It’s a rare case where convenience meets decent food, offering a satisfying end to a long day of climbing.
Classic climbs in this area include the Third Pillar’s Regular Route (5.10a, 4.5 stars), Lenticular Limbo (5.10, 3 stars), and High Gravity (5.11d, 4 stars). These routes strike a balance between technical challenge and accessibility, primarily on clean, solid granite with ample exposure to alpine elements. For climbers accustomed to other Eastern Sierra spots, Dana feels focused and serious but remains approachable for intermediate to advanced climbers.
This zone requires climbers to be self-sufficient, equipped to carry traditional gear for protection as fixed gear is sparse, especially on the less-traveled routes. The plateau’s granite is renowned for its quality but always demands careful placement and respect for local conditions.
The aspect of the Third Pillar faces east, making morning climbs cool and shaded, while afternoons bring sun that warms the rock but can also bring increased wind or afternoon clouds—typical of Sierra microclimates. Early and late season access hinges on Tioga Pass Road’s opening dates, which can vary annually due to snowpack.
Descending from the climbs involves retracing steps carefully on the same path down the boulder field and along the canyon to Tioga Lake. The route is straightforward but requires caution in loose terrain, particularly when tired or descending late in the day.
All told, Dana Plateau offers a pure high Sierra climbing experience with an alpine edge just outside Yosemite’s hustle. It’s a place where commitment and preparation meet rewarding rock—and where the landscape, from granite prow to wide alpine basin, invites focus, challenge, and nuance. Whether you’re chasing the classic Regular Route’s sustained moves or exploring quieter lines, the Dana Plateau is a compelling destination for those drawn to granite’s enduring call under open sky.
The approach involves significant elevation gain and variable terrain, demanding good acclimatization and steady footing on loose boulders. Routes are generally well-protected but require traditional rack skills; beware of afternoon weather changes common at high elevation. Descent retraces the ascent path, so remain cautious on steep or loose sections especially when fatigued.
Park at Tioga Lake lot near Yosemite's eastern entrance; check road opening times early or late season.
Follow the trail around Tioga Lake’s east side, then head up the canyon along Glacier Creek to the plateau.
Look for cairns marking the ascent route up the boulder field to the plateau.
After your climb, the Mobil station at Tioga Pass Road’s junction with Highway 395 offers surprisingly decent dinner options.
Most routes require traditional protection; fixed gear is minimal especially outside the Regular Route. Climbers should carry a full rack suitable for alpine granite, including cams and nuts up to medium sizes, and be prepared for some route finding. The Dana Couloir requires ice gear for low-angle ice climbing.
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