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M & M's Peanut: A Focused Trad Challenge in Joshua Tree

Twentynine Palms, California United States
crack climb
small cams
single pitch
Joshua Tree
face climb
technical
Length: 50 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
M & M's Peanut
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"M & M's Peanut offers a direct, technical crack climb that tests your trad skills on a compact 50-foot wall in Joshua Tree. Perfect for climbers who appreciate delicate gear placements and a steady, face-assisted approach."

M & M's Peanut: A Focused Trad Challenge in Joshua Tree

M & M's Peanut stands as an intriguing test along the rugged walls of Echo Rock within Joshua Tree National Park. This single-pitch trad climb offers a lean crack that starts thin and tight before easing into fists higher up, supported by an adjacent face that demands precise footwork and steady balance. The climb is situated about three feet left of the better-known M&Ms Plain route, yet its identity is distinct—a slender, technical line that rewards climbers who value finesse over brute force.

Approaching from the right simplifies the start considerably, making it more accessible to those who prefer a less direct, face-based entry instead of launching straight into the crack’s demanding opening moves. The rock here is familiar desert granite, rough and grippy, offering reassuring texture but also demanding concentrated movement where protection placements become both a mental and physical factor.

Length-wise, M & M's Peanut covers roughly 50 feet, compact but packed with engaging moves that test trad skills, particularly in gear management. Protecting the climb calls for a thoughtful rack emphasizing small wires low on the route and small cams placed higher. These smaller pieces are critical—the crack narrows and widens unpredictably, meaning protection requires a calm, strategic approach.

Echo Rock itself is a captivating playground tucked within Joshua Tree’s unique high desert ecosystem. The sparse trees and rugged stone create an atmosphere both raw and commanding, where the wind hints at far-off canyons and valleys. The climb’s position in the park means midday sun can be intense; early morning or late afternoon ascents grant some relief and soften the granite’s glare.

For climbers preparing to take on M & M's Peanut, robust desert shoes that offer solid edging without over-gripping are recommended. Hydration is vital—Joshua Tree’s dry air can sap fluids silently. Allow extra time for the approach; the trail crosses uneven ground mixed with sandy stretches, demanding steady boots and alert footing. It's a short approach, but desert terrain always calls for respect.

With a rating of 5.10a, this route tests technique over power. The grade feels accurate, with some climbers noting the opening moves as the real crux, which can bump challenge levels if protection placement isn’t efficient or if body positioning falters. Compared to nearby climbs, M & M's Peanut feels a touch stiffer, rewarding those who balance risk and patience.

In sum, M & M's Peanut delivers a focused trad experience on a subtly beautiful face and crack combo. It’s an ideal option for climbers looking to hone their crack climbing skills in a setting that encourages concentration, composure, and a quiet appreciation for the desert’s geological character.

Climber Safety

The route’s protection requires vigilance; many of the placements are small and demanding, meaning a fall can be risky if gear isn’t set properly. Also, desert heat can cause dehydration and fatigue quickly, so plan your climb during cooler parts of the day.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length50 feet

Local Tips

Approach from the right for an easier, face-based start.

Climb early morning or late afternoon to avoid harsh midday sun.

Wear shoes with firm edging capabilities but moderate grip for sensitive smearing.

Carry sufficient water to stay hydrated in the desert environment.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10a
Quality
Consensus:Rated at 5.10a, the route presents a consistent challenge, with a crux near the start where the crack tightens and protection spots are sparse. While not exceptionally long, the pitch feels stiffer than many other Joshua Tree climbs of similar grade thanks to the precise crack technique and the need for calm, confident gear placements.

Gear Requirements

Bring small wires for the lower section and small cams for upper placements; protection needs careful planning due to narrow, variable crack sizes.

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Tags

crack climb
small cams
single pitch
Joshua Tree
face climb
technical