Snickers South Face: Escape the Wind on Joshua Tree's Hidden Crag

Joshua Tree, California
desert stone
wind-protected
quiet
south facing
single pitch
crack climbing
polished classics
good in fall
moderate grades
technical
Length: 60-80 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
single pitch
Protected Place
Joshua Tree National Park
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Snickers - South Face offers wind-sheltered climbing just off Barker Dam Road, with classic Joshua Tree routes and an easy approach. This lesser-known crag delivers a quiet experience, a diverse set of climbs, and shelter from the elements—ideal for climbers seeking both adventure and calm."

Snickers South Face: Escape the Wind on Joshua Tree's Hidden Crag

For those with a hunger for variety and solitude, Snickers - South Face stands as one of Joshua Tree National Park's more understated pleasures. Rising with a tan, sunbaked presence just off Barker Dam Road, the Snickers formation links up with Little Rock Candy Mountain, carving a rugged profile that’s easy to spot from the drive. Yet, despite proximity to the crowds, its south-facing walls guard a quiet ambiance and a collection of routes rarely overrun—making it a superb pick for climbers craving classic JTree stone with room to breathe.

Your day here starts with a straightforward approach—a continuation of the same trail leading to Little Rock Candy Mountain. Swing east for another hundred meters, and the scenery shifts from open flats to the inviting corridor of a box canyon halfway along the face. The sound of wind dropping away signals the protected microclimate, making this zone a refuge on gusty Joshua Tree afternoons when dust and grit scour the more exposed domes.

Explore the canyon and you'll find a mix of classic routes aimed at a broad skill range. On the South Face Left, Funny Money (5.8+), with its thoughtful movement, starts your day on the right note—a standout moderate with just enough character to keep you on your toes. Test your mettle on Henny Penny (5.10d) or step things up to When You're A Jet and Iron Maiden, both clocking in at 5.11d. The proud When You’re Erect (5.12a) awaits those eyeing something steeper. What defines these lines isn't just grade but a classic Joshua Tree blend of technical stemming, hidden holds, and exposure—experiences sharpened by the wind-sheltered setting.

Head east past the box canyon and you’ll reach the South Face Right, an airy collection perched on tiered ledges. Here, Grain Death (5.9) offers a challenging tick for intermediate leaders, while the likes of Extra Chunky (5.10b), Sweet Ginger (5.11b), and The Art of Deception (5.11b) deliver the variety in angle, moves, and commitment for which Joshua Tree is so revered. Several high-elevation platforms grant sweeping westward views and golden afternoon light as you rack up pitches.

The approach requires a bit of navigation savvy—after the initial clear trails, expect some light scrambling and route-finding, especially as you move toward the higher or further ledges. For Sweet Ginger and neighbors, stick to the trail until you can pick your way up the sloping blocks and easy slabs at the base. There’s also an alternative path from the east, tracing an old road or wash from More Funky than Monkey Rock—a good option if you enjoy exploring less-trodden shepherd trails.

Snickers sits at 4,241 feet, which makes for reliably cooler conditions than lower-lying outcrops. The climbing season here runs long, with fall through early spring delivering optimal friction, bluebird skies, and manageable temperatures. The southern aspect soaks up morning rays but often goes into partial shade as the sun arcs overhead, especially in the short winter days.

This crag’s low traffic, wind protection, and diverse selection of traditional moderates and testpieces make it a top candidate for those looking to evade the circus at more famous walls. Classic routes like Funny Money, Iron Maiden, and When You’re Erect offer proof that lesser-known doesn't mean lesser quality. And while the climbs may not come with guidebook hype, they reward careful attention to footwork and gear—the kind of subtleties that define great Joshua Tree days.

Before setting pro, take note: Snickers is governed by the park’s conservation ethic—anchors must avoid vegetation, and only neutral- or rock-colored bolt hangers are permitted. Sticks to solid placements and bring enough singles and doubles to cover the spectrum, with attention to Joshua Tree’s often cryptic cracks and creative protection stances. Though the rock here generally inspires confidence, always check for suspect flakes and loose holds, particularly in the broken sections.

Snickers - South Face doesn’t demand perfection or big ego; it simply rewards climbers who value quiet exploration, stellar movement, and the lasting glow of a well-earned desert send. With easy approaches, shaded nooks, and a handful of stand-out lines, it’s a crag that’ll have you planning your next visit before you've even returned to the car.

Climber Safety

Use caution on the initial approach and while scrambling to ledges, as some rock sections can be loose or unstable. Check local regulations on anchors, especially regarding natural features, and always inspect fixed gear for wear.

Area Details

TypeTrad
Pitchessingle pitch
Length60-80 feet

Local Tips

This south-facing cliff is a reliable escape from the wind; bring layers for variable conditions.

Expect some light scrambling and route-finding to reach ledge routes and upper areas.

Mornings offer excellent friction and solitude, while afternoons may be warmer.

Stay current with park raptor closures and gear regulations before your trip.

Area Rating

Quality
Consensus:Grades at Snickers South Face are true to classic Joshua Tree standards. Climbers should expect straightforward but occasionally puzzling sequences, and no sign of inflated ratings—just honest climbing that rewards attentive movement. If you’ve climbed elsewhere in the park, you’ll find these routes in line with traditions, not sandbagged but demanding good technique.

Gear Requirements

Traditional rack required; pay close attention to Joshua Tree National Park rules: no vegetation for anchors and only neutral or rock-colored hangers allowed. Be ready for creative gear placements typical of JTree cracks; bring singles and doubles in standard sizes.

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Tags

desert stone
wind-protected
quiet
south facing
single pitch
crack climbing
polished classics
good in fall
moderate grades
technical