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Lower Bolted Face: A Classic Training Route in North Cheyenne Canyon

Colorado Springs, Colorado United States
5.9-
sport climbing
top rope
crack system
training route
granite
short pitch
Length: ft
Type: Sport, TR
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Lower Bolted Face
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Low Bolted Face offers a concise yet solid 5.9- sport climb in North Cheyenne Canyon, perfect for building technique or warming up. With a historical nod as a training ground and manageable crux finish, it’s an accessible route with scenic granite that calls to climbers seeking straightforward adventure."

Lower Bolted Face: A Classic Training Route in North Cheyenne Canyon

Lower Bolted Face stands as an inviting yet straightforward climb tucked along the Creekside Wall in North Cheyenne Canyon, Colorado Springs. This is a single-pitch sport and top-rope route rated 5.9-, offering a manageable but engaging challenge for climbers looking to sharpen their technique or enjoy a quick test of skills in a scenic setting. The rock face presents a trio of bolts guiding the way up a wall just left of the dominant corner system rated 5.5. Climbers have the flexibility to stay within the crack and corner on the left side before veering right between the second and third bolts to tackle the route’s crux — a subtle but decisive move that stands out as a finishing highlight.

The climb’s position near the lower section of the Creekside Wall means it’s anchored in a comfortable environment where the surrounding geology leans toward solid granite, offering reliable friction but with enough features to keep your fingers and feet honest. The face itself feels alive, the rock seeming to push back gently, welcoming climbers to test their balance and footwork without overwhelming. Although short, the climb carries historical weight—locals recount stories from the 1960s when this face was a chosen training ground for Valley runs, underscoring its role as a foundational route that builds confidence and skill.

For planning, bring at least three quickdraws and long slings; these are crucial for constructing a secure anchor atop the route, often fashioned around a natural pipe or tree. The approach is straightforward, making this climb accessible for an afternoon outing or as a warm-up before heading to more demanding routes nearby. Feet should be ready for granite friction, and a moderate level of fitness and basic technique will ensure you can commit to the crux moves without hesitation. This route’s appeal lies in its blend of history, simplicity, and subtle challenge—perfect for climbers keen on a no-frills experience with direct access to quality rock in a pleasant canyon setting.

Be mindful of the wall’s condition, as some holds can be sharp, and the bolts—while securely placed—favor climbers who maintain focus and control throughout the ascent. Given that the climb is often top-roped, crowding can occur, so plan your visit for quieter times of the day when sunlight and shade balance the rock’s temperature. Whether you’re revisiting a classic route or ticking a new one off your list, Lower Bolted Face promises a genuine and practical climbing experience rooted in local tradition and solid granite embrace.

Climber Safety

While solidly bolted, some holds around the crux can be sharp; maintain careful foot placements and mindful hand grips. The top anchor requires competent sling placement around natural features to ensure a secure descent or top-rope setup.

Route Details

TypeSport, TR
Pitches1
Length feet

Local Tips

Start on the crack/corner system on the left before finishing right for the crux move.

Plan for a quieter morning or late afternoon to avoid crowding and enjoy optimal rock temperature.

Check your slings and quickdraws for length and durability to safely build the top anchor.

Footwear with solid granite friction capability will help secure your position during delicate moves.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9-
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9- rating here feels approachable, with a soft edge due to the route's clear holds and bolt protection. The crux, positioned near the top, adds just enough challenge to keep climbers alert without pushing into strenuous territory. Compared to neighboring climbs, this feels like a comfortable climb suitable for those stepping up from beginner levels or those wanting low-stress reps.

Gear Requirements

Bring three quickdraws and several long slings to build a sturdy anchor using natural features at the top, such as a pipe or tree.

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Tags

5.9-
sport climbing
top rope
crack system
training route
granite
short pitch