West Face of the Pinnacle – Classic Corner Climbing in North Cheyenne Canyon

Colorado Springs, Colorado
left facing corner
slab
trad
accessible approach
single pitch
rap off tree
city park
varied protection
good for fall
classic
quiet
Length: 80–100 ft
Type: Trad | Mixed
Stars
Pitches
single pitch
Protected Place
North Cheyenne Canyon Park
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"The West Face of the Pinnacle in North Cheyenne Canyon beckons climbers with its dramatic corner system and broad, sunlit face just steps from the roadside. Classic routes and creative variations make this spot a go-to for trad enthusiasts seeking approachable lines and a touch of adventure. Watch for variable anchor conditions and stay informed about seasonal closures to make the most of your outing."

West Face of the Pinnacle – Classic Corner Climbing in North Cheyenne Canyon

The West Face of the Pinnacle is a striking landmark for climbers rolling into North Cheyenne Canyon, its broad face and imposing left-facing corner impossible to miss from the roadside pullout. Here, stone meets sky with a boldness that commands attention, setting the stage for a distinctive climbing experience just beyond the edge of Colorado Springs. The west face’s main attraction is its broad, open wall and an almost architectural corner system, inviting both new explorers and seasoned locals to tackle its variety of lines and ever-present options for discovery.

Walking up from the parking area, the approach is short but engaging—after just under a mile drive from the canyon’s entrance, you’ll spot the unmistakable face dead ahead. Step out, move a few yards right from the pullout, and let the trail through cooling pine usher you behind a second pullout, directly into a gully leading up to the crag’s base. The atmosphere shifts as soon as you set foot on the steeply forested ground—the bustle fades, replaced by the hush of wind in the needles and the anticipation of real climbing above.

While the routes that lace this wall each have their own quirks, the most eye-catching feature is that remarkable slab just left of the corner. There’s a raw beauty in its simplicity, as well as a distinct sense of possibility: the listed climbs are merely a starting point, with a wealth of fun, moderate variations frequently pieced together by those seeking a touch of adventure alongside their beta.

Classic climbs like Crack Parallel (5.7) showcase what the Pinnacle’s West Face does best—engaging, approachable movement with just enough challenge to keep things interesting for climbers still honing their trad skills. The face has been climbed in winter conditions as a mixed route, adding another layer of intrigue for those drawn to icy adventure, but most visits here mean dry rock, clear views, and the echo of passing hawks overhead.

While the climbing is inviting, caution is the watchword for the summit. The top of the west face does not sport fixed anchors—previous bolts have been removed, and evidence of old hardware scarred into the stone bears witness to the crag’s evolving story. Instead, solid descent options include a rappel from the sturdy tree on a ledge up top (bring extra webbing in case it needs backing up), or utilizing the standard Pinnacle descent trail for a more gradual walk-off. Make these choices with respect for the local environment and your own safety plan—anchors may change due to resource protection and weathering.

Access has had its share of complications given the sensitive canyon environment and periodic trail closures from storm damage and restoration efforts. As of the most recent updates, roads have reopened after major repairs, but closures (especially after storms or during significant local rainfall) can occur without warning. Always check the latest status before heading out, and be alert for restricted climbing periods—city authorities may close the area to protect visitors and the vulnerable sandstone after extreme weather.

If you’re hunting for a day of classic trad in a setting where every pitch feels like a personal discovery, the West Face delivers. The routes are approachable, the movement fun, and the absence of crowds keeps the sense of exploration alive. Bring a full rack—including small-to-medium cams and nuts to protect the corner and face—and be ready for bold leads with real exposure up high.

The day’s reward is more than just great climbing: from the top, you’ll earn wide vistas over the canyon’s rolling ridges, framed by pines and catching the golden light of late afternoon. These moments of awe are the essence of climbing in Colorado—adventure ready, subtly wild, and always worth the effort.

Remember to pack out what you bring, minimize your impact, and savor days on the West Face with gratitude. Each adventure here leaves you a little stronger, a little more tuned in to the subtle rhythm of stone and sky, and eager for the next challenge around the corner.

Climber Safety

No bolted anchors exist at the top, so plan on rappelling from a tree on a ledge (inspect and back up cord as needed). Be mindful of loose rock, especially after rain, and monitor for seasonal closure updates due to past flood and cliff instability.

Area Details

TypeTrad | Mixed
Pitchessingle pitch
Length80–100 feet

Local Tips

Arrive early for cool temperatures and empty routes—afternoons can bring crowds and increased sun exposure.

Check current access status; area closures can occur after storms due to trail or cliff damage.

Bring your own anchor material to reinforce or back up the tree anchors for rappelling.

Explore the slab and corner system for fun linkups and personalized variations off the main lines.

Area Rating

Quality
Consensus:Most routes here are graded fairly for the area, with Crack Parallel (5.7) offering classic moderate difficulty. The climbs match up closely with nearby Colorado Springs trad grades—expect straightforward movement with manageable protection, though vigilance is needed on gear placements. No notorious sandbagging, just honest lines.

Gear Requirements

Bring a standard trad rack with full set of cams and nuts. No bolted anchors at the top—rappel from a sturdy tree or use the standard Pinnacle descent. Be prepared for gear belays. Protection can be creative in places, especially if using route variations.

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Tags

left facing corner
slab
trad
accessible approach
single pitch
rap off tree
city park
varied protection
good for fall
classic
quiet