Hully Gully Ice and Mixed: Adventure Climbing Above South Cheyenne Canyon

Colorado Springs, Colorado
ice climbing
mixed routes
winter
technical approach
good for advanced climbers
exposed
seasonal
Length: 200-240 ft
Type: Mixed
Stars
Pitches
multi-pitch
Protected Place
South Cheyenne Canyon, Pike National Forest
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Perched high above South Cheyenne Canyon, Hully Gully Ice and Mixed draws climbers to its seasonal flows and rugged mixed lines. The area's steep terrain, wild setting, and challenging routes make it an essential Colorado winter destination for those seeking authentic ice and mixed ascents."

Hully Gully Ice and Mixed: Adventure Climbing Above South Cheyenne Canyon

Rising from the south rim of Colorado Springs’ storied South Cheyenne Canyon, Hully Gully Ice and Mixed commands the focus and anticipation of any ice or mixed climber seeking something just beyond the ordinary. Located just a little farther than the last paved curve of Old Stage Road, this rugged enclave offers climbers two full pitches of seasonal ice—when the freeze is right—and a cluster of technical mixed and drytool lines carved into the hillside. The air is crisp at nearly 7,000 feet, and the exposed position over the drainage below gives every step along the approach, and every placement in the ice, an added sense of exposure and reward.

The scene comes alive each winter, but only if the weather cooperates. Cold, wet years starting in late November or early December coax the flows into shape. When the ice is in, the setting feels intimate: surrounded by steep ridges, with the sounds of the canyon echoing below. Hully Gully itself (WI4) is the local testpiece—a beautiful, challenging line offering real commitment when conditions are right. Glacier Pons, another favorite, tempts those hungry for more engaging footwork and precision, while Holy Moly (5.10) entices mixed aficionados.

Most of the routes can be accessed from above, which makes top-roping easy—but introduces genuine hazard for those leading and those climbing beneath. Thoughtful climbers debate the etiquette, but safety stays paramount: when in doubt, communicate and be vigilant before dropping a rope. And never risk venturing to the edge above pitch two without a rope, especially when snow camouflages a treacherous, icy finish.

The experience is about honing both judgment and skills in a wild, sometimes fickle setting. Early in the season, the temptation to run laps on thin ice is real, but it pays to wait until the lines are fat enough to take screws with confidence—a practice as much about stewardship as self-preservation. Be responsible: if no one’s parked at the pullout and you’ve got the ice to yourself, it’s a prime opportunity for laps, just keep an eye out for changing conditions.

Getting here is an adventure itself—the drive up Old Stage Road from the Broadmoor Hotel carries you beyond the city’s hum. After the sharp turn where the pavement gives way to dirt, a large pullout on the right serves as your parking spot—never park at the corner with the power line, or you’ll block crucial emergency access. From there, the approach follows a brief walk up the road, tracking west, then drops steeply along a trail next to the powerline, descending a ridge. One sign at a tree marks the decision point: left takes you to the base, right to the snowy, sometimes dicey, topout.

The slopes here are often quiet, especially on powder mornings after a storm has changed the landscape and hushed the noises below. You’ll find the routes waiting—sometimes dripping, sometimes brittle, always a challenge to read. Local wisdom recommends patience and respect for the cycles that shape Hully Gully’s conditions. The real prize, of course, is more than a good pitch: it’s testing yourself on real Colorado ice and mixed terrain, building stories and skills carved out of winter’s best.

Plan for adventure, bring your sharp tools and your sharpest judgment, and let Hully Gully’s unique atmosphere push your limits as you forge your own path up the canyon walls.

Climber Safety

Always inspect ice thickness and anchors before climbing—the routes may appear solid but can have hidden weaknesses, especially after warm spells or early in the season. Never approach the edge above pitch two unroped, as the snow can hide severe drop-offs and unstable cornices.

Area Details

TypeMixed
Pitchesmulti-pitch
Length200-240 feet

Local Tips

Arrive early if you want solitude; weekends can see occasional traffic.

Watch for south-facing exposure that can make ice conditions variable as the season progresses.

Avoid parking at the corner with the power line—emergency vehicles need access.

Never approach the snowy topout unroped—hidden ice and cornices are real hazards.

Area Rating

Quality
Consensus:The classic climbs at Hully Gully—WI4 and 5.10 on mixed terrain—demand solid technique and good judgment, particularly when conditions are thin or shifting. The area’s grades are considered fair, with the main challenge stemming from the ever-changing ice quality and the need for confidence on both tools and feet. Compared to well-trafficked ice parks, expect a rawer, wilder feel that can make even moderate grades pack a punch, especially early or late in the season.

Gear Requirements

Bring a full ice rack with screws suited for variable thickness, all your standard mixed/drytool gear, helmets, and plenty of slings or anchors for toproping or building anchors at the top. Evaluate ice thickness carefully before committing to lead—early-season ice may be thin, so caution is key.

Share Your Ascent

Upload your photos of and earn up to 3000 $ADVCOIN tokens.

Tags

ice climbing
mixed routes
winter
technical approach
good for advanced climbers
exposed
seasonal