"Love Dyke offers a tight, technical single-pitch climb at Lover’s Leap, demanding precise gear placements amidst a striking granite setting. Its moderate 5.9 PG13 rating challenges climbers to combine finesse with solid crack technique on a well-protected but tricky line."
Love Dyke commands attention at Lover's Leap for climbers ready to test their finesse on delicate gear placements and technical crack work. This single-pitch trad route, stretching roughly 90 feet, winds through a sequence of natural features that demand steady hands and sharp eyes. The climb begins in a small left-facing corner crowned by a prominent arete, immediately setting a precise tone—every move requires intent and control. As you transition onto the right-trending crack, the line invites careful navigation toward an overlap that marks the route’s crux. This section is where the rock pushes back with subtle complexity, rewarding those who read the subtle textures and find the trickier protection spots. Beyond the crux, the path veers into a right-facing corner ascending a pillar, where foot placements must remain confident and deliberate as you angle left toward the second rappel anchors.
The character of Love Dyke lies in its blend of moderate climbing difficulty (rated 5.9 PG13) paired with a protective challenge that elevates the seriousness of the route. Gear is small-sized and often elusive—protecting the climb demands patience and a careful touch, as missed placements can turn an otherwise fluid pitch into a nerve-testing experience. Micro cams and RPs in the 0 to .3 range are critical, augmented optionally by cams up to size 2 and offset Metolius cams. For any climber eyeing Lover’s Leap’s more adventurous lines, this pitch offers a concentrated dose of technical crack climbing that calls for precision over power.
Situated at the heart of Colorado climbing country, Lover’s Leap provides a compelling backdrop of granite pillars rising sharply from foothills rich with evergreen scent and open skies. This area is accessible from nearby towns like Morrison and Evergreen, making it a favored day trip for climbers in the area. The approach to Love Dyke is straightforward, typical of the well-traveled Lover’s Leap, with a short walk on established trails weaving through open, rocky terrain. Expect ample sun exposure on the climb during morning hours; afternoon shade arrives later in the day as the walls hold the sun’s warmth.
Safety remains paramount here—while the rock quality is generally solid, the combination of small gear and a PG13 rating signals cautious route management. A missed placement here isn’t just a slip—it’s an invitation for careful attention in protecting each move. After topping out, climbers utilize the bolted rappel stations for a swift and secure descent, avoiding any complex downclimbing hazards.
This route is well suited for climbers building confidence on crack systems who are prepared with a rack emphasizing small cams and RPs. Its single pitch length makes it ideal for those seeking an approachable yet technical climb with straightforward logistics that deliver a rewarding test of skills beneath Colorado’s high desert sky. Love Dyke embodies the rugged, hands-on spirit of Lover’s Leap—compact, challenging, and distinctly Colorado.
Protection on Love Dyke involves small, sometimes elusive gear placements—missing these can increase fall consequences. Make sure to double-check placements around the overlap crux and avoid rushing gear. The route uses bolted rappel anchors; descending without proper rappel technique increases risk.
Start early to avoid afternoon heat; the climb faces sun in the morning hours.
Focus on careful gear placement around the overlap crux—small cams and RPs are vital.
Wear climbing shoes with sticky rubber to handle delicate edges and crack jams.
Use the established bolted anchors for a safe and straightforward rappel descent.
Bring a full rack emphasizing small protection: RPs, microcams from 0 to 0.3, standard cams up to size 2, and offset Metolius cams between sizes 0-1 and 1-2 are essential to protect tricky spots on this route.
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