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Lost in Space Direct at Sheep's Nose: A Classic Colorado Trad Climb

Evergreen, Colorado United States
hand crack
finger crack
multi-pitch
sunny approach
moderate protection
pine forest
summit views
South Platte
Length: ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
4
Location
Lost in Space Direct
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Lost in Space Direct presents a classic four-pitch trad climb on Sheep's Nose, weaving through cracks, corners, and slabs with solid protection and stunning views. This sunny route near Evergreen, Colorado, offers climbers a balanced blend of technical challenge and accessible hiking, making it a staple in the South Platte climbing scene."

Lost in Space Direct at Sheep's Nose: A Classic Colorado Trad Climb

Rising sharply from the pine-studded slopes near West Creek, Lost in Space Direct offers a compelling trad climb on Colorado’s Sheep’s Nose that challenges and rewards in equal measure. Just a brief, fifteen-minute walk from the parking area on Douglas County Road 68, this route cuts a striking line up the southeast buttress of the 8,894-foot summit, bathed in warm sunlight that lingers well into the day. Towering Ponderosa pines frame the approach trail, their rough bark and pine needles underfoot setting a natural rhythm before the rock demands your focus.

Lost in Space begins at the southeast corner’s lowest point, identifiable by a ledge crowned with a small pine tree growing from a right-leaning corner about 75 feet above the ground. The climb ascends through four distinct pitches, each blending technical crack climbing with open slab and corner features that test finger strength and route-finding. Pitch one offers two options: a 5.7 hand crack meandering upward into a moderate 5.5 corner, or a bolder 5.9 slab variation calling for confident footwork and nerves of steel. In colder months, when snow or ice coat this pitch, the adjacent Lamb’s Prey crack—tight and technical at 5.9-—presents a worthy alternative.

Pitch two maintains the momentum with a 5.8+ finger crack reached by a delicate right traverse around a sharp arete. The climb then pushes upward through airy moves that are at once thrilling and exposed, before easing into a short dihedral where a comfortable belay awaits. By pitch three, the grade nudges to 5.9, with thin cracks forcing precise sequences. A crux demands moving out onto slab, balancing delicately before the climb relaxes into a 5.4 corner with solid holds leading to a spacious pedestal belay.

The final pitch, rated 5.7, showcases a clean and well-protected right-facing hand crack that climbs smoothly for 100 feet. As the angle eases and the corner thins, climbers must trust their skills on open summit slabs, placing gear carefully as they push toward the peak’s exposed rim. This summit offers sweeping views of the South Platte basin and neighboring ridges, rewarding effort with peaceful panoramas and the fresh mountain air.

Protection on Lost in Space demands a full rack of hexes and slung cowbells up to 3.6 inches, with placements generally solid but occasionally requiring a keen eye for size and placement security. The rock’s texture offers dependable friction, but selective gear and careful footwork remain crucial. For descent, head down and left, scrambling and downclimbing with caution—winter conditions can cloak the route in snow and ice, turning the return into a different kind of challenge. Local lore warns to "watch out for the Yeti," a fitting nod to the wild spirit of this mountain.

Lost in Space Direct is an accessible yet enriching climb, suited to trad climbers who enjoy a mix of crack systems and slab moves in a sunny, pine-fringed setting. Its classic status on Sheep’s Nose comes not only from technical merit but also from the undeniable pleasure of being out in front of the wall, moving steadily upward toward the sky and rock. For anyone headed to the South Platte region, this route offers a memorable day that balances hands-on climbing with Colorado’s enduring alpine character.

Climber Safety

Rock quality is generally sound, but runners might find thin placements and occasional runouts on the slab sections. Be cautious descending in winter months, when snow and ice elevate risk on exposed scrambling trails.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches4
Length feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid afternoon heat on the exposed southeast face.

Check for snow or ice on pitch one during winter; Lamb’s Prey offers a dry alternative crack nearby.

Wear sticky shoes for slab sections and bring gloves for crack jams.

Descend left with care—scrambling can be tricky with wet or snowy conditions; a helmet is recommended.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9 rating feels fair, with the difficulty comfortably spread across the pitches. The crux on pitch three's thin crack and delicate slab requires precision, making this climb engaging but not overly stiff. Pitch one’s variation adds choice in effort, while pitch four provides a satisfying moderate finish.

Gear Requirements

Bring a comprehensive rack including hexes and slung cowbells up to 3.6 inches. While protection points are generally solid, some placements require careful sizing and will reward experienced gear picking.

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Tags

hand crack
finger crack
multi-pitch
sunny approach
moderate protection
pine forest
summit views
South Platte