5.10a R, Trad
Yosemite Village
California ,United States
"Little Sheba Continuation offers a sharp, single-pitch slab challenge on Yosemite’s Lamb Dome. Its exposed, dirt-dusted granite demands delicate footwork and careful protection, making it a memorable but spicy end to the classic Little Sheba climb."
Perched on the edge of Yosemite’s iconic Tuolumne Meadows, the Little Sheba Continuation extends the adventure beyond the well-trod path of the original route. This single-pitch trad climb on the West Face of the Lamb offers a brief but intense experience, demanding both focus and composure amidst exposed slab terrain. After topping out from Little Sheba, a short walk along a narrow ledge leads to the route’s true start—a subtle right-angled shelf peppered with a bolt or two that quietly signals the ascent ahead.
From here, the climb rises around 45 feet with a tricky blend of protections and slab moves that keep a climber’s attention razor sharp. About 25 feet up, a bolt anchors the initial section before runners face another 20 to 25 feet of sustained, mostly 5.9-plus slab. The rock here is less pristine than elsewhere on Lamb Dome, sporting a layer of dirt and dust that adds to the challenge. This stretch demands delicate footwork and steady balance; even a minute slip could cascade into a runout scenario if the belayer isn’t firmly anchored on the ledge below. The potential for a leader fall here underlines the seriousness masked by the moderate rating.
After the third bolt, climbers must navigate around a small roof feature, choosing either the left or right side to complete the pitch. The classic topo suggests the left, but reports confirm that the right offers a viable—if slightly different—finish. The route isn’t widely recommended as an extension of Little Sheba on account of its gritty slab and the risk it carries, but for those looking to push their nerves and finesse on dirtier granite, it creates a memorable chapter.
This route exemplifies the rugged character of Yosemite’s lesser-traveled faces. Getting here places you in the heart of one of America's most celebrated climbing landscapes—with crisp alpine air above and expansive views of Tuolumne’s high country stretching beyond. Climbers opting for Little Sheba Continuation should prepare for an approach along rocky ledges, bring gear suited for bolts, and move carefully across friction-reliant sections. The climb rewards steady nerves and sharp technique more than explosive power, delivering an experience grounded in careful, attentive climbing. Timing your ascent to avoid peak heat can make the slab feel more secure, with early mornings or late afternoons offering cooler conditions and better grip on the stone.
Safety cannot be overstated here. The ledge below is narrow, and the belayer must be properly secured to avoid risk of a runaway fall. The route’s sparse bolt placements mean natural protection is minimal, so confidence with slab-based movement is key. While it’s not a destination route, it provides a glimpse of the complex terrain and subtle challenges that Yosemite’s granite can conjure beyond its famous classics. For climbers ready to take on a short but demanding slab section with real exposure, Little Sheba Continuation becomes an alluring, if cautious, option.
The ledge below the route is narrow and exposed; unanchored belayers risk running out if the leader falls near the third bolt. The rock’s dusty patches reduce friction and heighten slip risk, especially under heat, so extra caution is advised during the approach and climb.
Ensure your belayer is anchored securely on the narrow ledge below.
Start the climb early or late in the day for cooler rock and better friction.
Brush or clean gear and shoes carefully to counter dirt on the slab.
Be prepared to navigate the bolt-protected slab with minimal natural gear placements.
The route carries a handful of bolts marking key protection points, but the slab sections demand trust in friction and precise foot placements. Bringing gear for anchoring and using the bolts is critical, given limited natural protection.
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