HomeClimbingLion King

Lion King

Golden, Colorado United States
sport climbing
roof section
technical moves
single pitch
Clear Creek Canyon
Length: 100 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Lion King
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Lion King offers 100 feet of technical sport climbing on a striking pillar beneath an overhanging roof. With sharp in-cut holds that disappear and reappear, it challenges climbers to find balance and precision in every move."

Lion King

In the heart of Clear Creek Canyon, where rugged cliffs meet open skies, Lion King stakes its claim as a sport route that demands precision and steady resolve. This single-pitch climb unfolds along a striking pillar, challenging climbers to navigate a seamless passage through an overhanging roof section. The holds ahead don’t simply exist—they beckon and vanish, testing grip and footwork on an ever-changing face. The rock’s surface is rough enough to provide solid friction but requires careful balance, making every move feel intentional rather than rushed. Whether you’re eyeing this climb as an introductory 5.9 or a punchy challenge in your rotation, the route’s compact intensity packs a rewarding wall length of 100 feet.

Clear Creek Canyon’s dry air fills your lungs as you approach, surrounded by the hum of pine needles stirred by mountain breezes. The pillar stands tall and distinct, its edges worn yet sharp enough to hold the keenest edges. Protection bolts are strategically placed—eight or nine secure points leading to a two-bolt anchor with solid chains, ensuring confidence as you push upward. This setup invites climbers to move dynamically but requires mindfulness of your clipping rhythm.

The approach to Lion King is straightforward from Golden, Colorado, a climbing hub known for its accessible terrain and scenic beauty. After a short hike through mellow forest trails, the wall reveals itself—a raw granite canvas painted with chalk marks and the faint sounds of previous ascents. Afternoon light often casts a warm glow on the rock face, ideal for climbs that benefit from dry conditions and gentle warmth without baking in intense sun.

This route appeals not only to climbers brushing up on their 5.9 skills but also those seeking a less crowded venue with enough challenge to sharpen technique. While the rating feels fair, the roof section introduces a subtle crux, upping the demand on core strength and positioning. Compared with other local climbs in Clear Creek, Lion King offers a balanced test—neither deceptively easy nor excessively punishing.

Prepare with sturdy climbing shoes that hold tight on small edges and bring quickdraws sized for sport climbing. The rock’s features may tease you into dynamic movements, so warm up adequately before you commit. Hydration is essential, even on cooler days, as the climb will engage your muscles fully and leave little room for error.

Once at the anchor, enjoy a moment of reward looking outward to the canyon’s sweeping views—pine slopes dipped in gold sunlight, trails winding far below. The descent is straightforward with a rappel back to the base, but be mindful of rockfall potential and double-check anchors before lowering.

Lion King is a compact adventure that embodies clear Creek’s spirit: straightforward access paired with technical finesse. It’s a climb for those ready to engage the rock with focus and emerge invigorated, a gateway into the canyon's bold granite landscapes.

Climber Safety

The rock is generally sound, but the roof section requires extra caution; maintain smooth clipping to avoid falls. Check anchor condition regularly and watch for loose debris near the base before starting your climb.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches1
Length100 feet

Local Tips

Approach via well-marked trails through moderate forest terrain—allow 20 minutes from parking.

Expect good afternoon sun on the face, bringing ideal conditions in cooler seasons.

Bring a full set of quickdraws to comfortably clip all bolts without stretching.

Double-check your rappel setup at the two-bolt anchor before descent.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9 grade here feels solidly on-point with a distinct crux in the roof passage that tests core tension and technical footwork. It doesn’t underplay the difficulty but remains accessible to climbers working at this level. Compared to other Clear Creek 5.9s, it leans a little more toward finesse than brute strength.

Gear Requirements

Eight to nine bolts protect the route, leading to a secure two-bolt anchor equipped with chains, allowing for safe and confident clipping and top-rope setup.

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Tags

sport climbing
roof section
technical moves
single pitch
Clear Creek Canyon